27 Romilly St
Building · Soho ·
Smoky aubergine dip, fatty koobideh skewers, baklava ice cream
Information
27 Romilly St, London W1D 5AL, UK Get directions
Smoky aubergine dip, fatty koobideh skewers, baklava ice cream
27 Romilly St, London W1D 5AL, UK Get directions
"Based on the hole-in-the-wall 'kabab' houses of Tehran, with exposed brick and painted plasterwork; the best place to sit is at the open kitchen counter opposite the tandoor and the mangal barbecue. Cooking is fresh and tasty; try the coal-cooked aubergine and the goat shoulder kabab." - Michelin Inspector
"Soho’s first Iranian restaurant is JKS Restaurants’ thirteenth, with Iranian chef Kian Samyani overseeing a short menu inspired by Tehran’s kabab houses on Romilly Street. It focusses in on those kababs and khoresht (stews) in line with tradition, but a couple of JKS flourishes are visible. First, in a baklava ice cream sandwich (the only sweet) surely created to mimic the Instagram fame of Gymkhana’s muntjac biryani, or Bao’s blood cake with cured egg yolk; second, a strict attention to the smallest details — such as the panir sabzi, the traditional pre-starter of feta, radish, nuts and fresh herbs — all in the service of giving diners what JKS knows they want." - Adam Coghlan
"Another JKS restaurant: Berenjak, which serves Iranian cuisine." - James Hansen
"Berenjak styles itself as a kababi, an Irani “hole-in-the-wall eatery” serving up grilled meats, as typically seen across the Muslim world. This moody, dimly lit spot has some stunning starters (particularly the kashk e bademjoon, a smoky walnut and aubergine dip), but the thing to come for will be the fatty koobideh skewers. Berenjak offers bottomless kebabs after 9:30 p.m., which makes for a good early suhoor for those wanting to make a Soho night of it." - Maazin Buhari
"Soho isn’t an area you typically think of when you want to spend some time on your own. Historically, this is a part of London that’s for, and filled with, lots of people. Loud people, suited people, drunk people, horizontal people, rickshaw people. It’s an area that’s made for being with others. And most of the restaurants are filled with groups of twos and threes (or more) doing just that. Berenjak is no different. Only, we think, this place is far better on your own. Berenjak serves Iranian mazeh and kebabs in a corridor-like space on Romilly Street. The main room is made up of booths, but it’s the counter that’s the heart of this restaurant. This ten person bar - and the meat-drippingly-enchanting, rotating, shawarma behind it - is what makes Berenjak so good on your lonesome. This isn’t a silent counter or, worse, an overly performative one. Sure, they’ll tell you that the tomato-y omelette Irani is a bit like scrambled eggs, but they’re not going perform a haiku about a chicken kebab. What it is is friendly, sometimes interactive, and much more fun to sit at than a booth. Especially alone. Or, if you must, with a friend. photo credit: Berenjak You’re told the food here is made for sharing. It’s a ‘we recommend’ two dippy things and a kebab per person place. But you might get the feeling you’re being upsold whether you’re here in a group or alone. The odds of you really needing some totally okay hummus, the best liver in London, bread, and a whole lamb rump kebab, per person, is pretty low. And that’s before you throw in the unmissable baklava ice cream sandwich. That’s not to say that all of those things aren’t good, because they are, and we’ve placed this exact order (twice), but we know that’s not a normal amount of food. Nor is it stuff you can’t find in other areas of London at a lower price. But the fact is, you’re not in other areas of London. You’re in Soho. And, perhaps because of that, everything here feels a bit considered. From the Persian patterns and stylishly crumbling plasterwork, to the careful piping of hummus. Even the inclusion of the Torki kebab - a pile of shawarma meat on a bed of chips with chilli and garlic sauce - feels like a thought out, kitsch, menu inclusion. Does that matter? No. Because it tastes great. And you’re not going to have many better casual options when you’re alone in the middle of Soho. Especially not ones with a hypnotic bit of meat to stare at for an hour. Food Rundown Taftoon Bread The only kind of cleaning we like to do is mopping things up with bread, and this made-to-order sesame flatbread is perfect for it. photo credit: Karolina Wiercigroch Mast O Khiar A yoghurt-y dip with cucumber, mint, and raisins. It pretty much does what it says on the tin. Not that it comes out of a tin. But you know what we mean. photo credit: Karolina Wiercigroch Omelette Irani You know that picture of an omelette you have in your head? Get rid of it. This is an omelette that’s been through a shredder and then mixed with a tomato sauce. It’s alright. Kashk E Bademjoon Things that are sweet and smoky: the vape cloud from the guy at the bus stop, this aubergine dip. Things that are nice, sweet, and smoky: this dip. Hummus Everyone eats hummus everywhere these days. At home, at work, on the move, in the dark with the fridge door open. This one comes out of a fancy piping bag and is alright, if a little cloying. photo credit: Karolina Wiercigroch Jigar These little grilled calves livers are the best we’ve had in a long, long time. If you’re offal-inclined, make sure you order them. Koobideh Kabab If there was a league table of kebabs here, this minced goat one would sit in the middle. Neither brilliant nor bad. Chenjeh Kabab If you’re coming here for the sole purpose of eating lumps of meat with bread, then well done. Good move. This lamb rump kebab is the one to order. It’s perfectly pink and juicy. photo credit: Karolina Wiercigroch Kabab Torki The rotating tower of shawarma meat is soothing and delicious. Soothing, because what slow repetitive motion isn’t? And delicious, because, well, they turn it into this juicy pile of meat with chips and sauce. photo credit: Karolina Wiercigroch Khoresht Ghaimeh Bademjoon An aubergine stew with optional short rib (we added the latter) is perfectly fine, if a little forgettable. Baklava Ice Cream Sandwich We’re a nation of proud sandwich eaters, and this is something special. photo credit: Karolina Wiercigroch" - Jake Missing
