"Soho’s first Iranian restaurant is JKS Restaurants’ thirteenth, with Iranian chef Kian Samyani overseeing a short menu inspired by Tehran’s kabab houses on Romilly Street. It focusses in on those kababs and khoresht (stews) in line with tradition, but a couple of JKS flourishes are visible. First, in a baklava ice cream sandwich (the only sweet) surely created to mimic the Instagram fame of Gymkhana’s muntjac biryani, or Bao’s blood cake with cured egg yolk; second, a strict attention to the smallest details — such as the panir sabzi, the traditional pre-starter of feta, radish, nuts and fresh herbs — all in the service of giving diners what JKS knows they want." - Adam Coghlan