ABSteak by Chef Akira Back

"Some beautiful restaurants are colorful and filled with light. Others are monochromatic and moody. The new ABSteak in Union Square is of the latter category; featuring intricate wooden arches and paneling, and a patterned marble floor, it feels like the inside of a treasure trove — or a majestic skeleton of an animal, if you have imagination. Add the dramatic lighting, the leather bar stools, and the unapologetically carnivorous menu featuring chef Akira Back’s luxurious take on Korean BBQ, and you’ll get the picture — it’s a plush, stylish night out." - Flora Tsapovsky

"ABSteak is the first San Francisco outpost of celebrity chef Akira Back, who owns numerous restaurants internationally and in the U.S. This subterranean Korean barbecue spot has vague clubstaurant vibes, but it’s mostly enjoyable, and the smokeless grills keep dinner pleasant. Oenophiles will want to check out the wine list along with the showy case at the center of the restaurant. It’s a bit pricier than other KBBQ experiences, but if you’re looking for some ambiance for, say, a date or hard-to-please friends and family, this is worth a try." - Lena Park

"Chef Akira Back has restaurants located around the world, but ABsteak is his first in San Francisco, and it’s a fun one. Think of it as an upscale Korean barbecue spot, taking over what was once a nightclub located below street level in the Union Square area. The smokeless Japanese binchotan charcoal is a marvel, and diners should at the very least try Back’s marinated galbi on the grill to see it in action. From there, go with your budget, as cuts do tend to get pricy (although all are excellent), but tack on an order of the chadol dwen jang jjigae soup with Australian wagyu brisket and one of the many excellent cocktails if you’re looking for some options." - Dianne de Guzman, Paolo Bicchieri

"ABSteak in Union Square is part of a global chain with a notable outpost in Vegas. So it’s no surprise that this Korean barbecue spot looks like something you’d find on the Strip. A black marble staircase leads to a cavernous dining room pulsing with K-pop, filled with glossy black tables, leather-bound chairs, and a floor-to-ceiling tubular glass wine case. But despite the glitz, a night at this place is disappointing. Beyond the design, every staff member goes through a month-long training program to grill your meat tableside. And while we appreciate that level of service, the experience is awkward. All conversation halts each time a staff member approaches your table and hovers, trying to make stilted small talk while searing some beef. It’s like a bad high school dance where no one’s sure what to do or say next. The food doesn’t rescue the vibe. Banchan is headlined by bland kimchi and pickled radish, and a $30 veggie platter you could find prepackaged at any big-box grocery store is a mistake. Your server will tell you to order the "AB pizza" with the confidence of a self-help seminar’s keynote speaker, but it’s just OK—a thin layer of wagyu draped across a saltine cracker-ish tortilla. ABSteak does, indeed, have steak, with pricey, high-quality cuts like 45-day whiskey-aged ribeye, wagyu bulgogi, and Australian picanha. While it’s decent, and we can recognize the thought behind the smokeless grills, the meat is not worth waiting through several minutes of strained silence. Make sure to eat everything as quickly as possible. The warming tray that each piece is transferred to is heated by what looks like a single tea light. With other fantastic Korean BBQ options, it’s hard to justify ABSteak’s steep prices, smaller portions, and uneasy service. If you’re looking for a showy dining room over a meal with substance, you’ll be just fine at ABSteak. Otherwise, your money and time are better spent elsewhere. Food Rundown Banchan The best one of these small plates is the house salad with citrusy dressing. Otherwise, everything else lacks spice and flavor. If banchan wasn’t included with every order of meat, we’d skip it. photo credit: Ricky Rodriguez Meats The meat is undeniably premium: beautifully marbled and served with dipping salts and fancy sauces. Is it good? Yes. Is it good enough to return? No. But we do like the touch of the grill being swapped in between each course. photo credit: Ricky Rodriguez Vegetable Platter Sometimes, a meal with fatty, rich cuts of meat calls for some balance. Unfortunately, this $30 replica of a store-bought veggie pack is the wrong move. AB Wagyu Pizza The dish that supposedly shot Chef Akira Back to steakhouse stardom. It’s fine. The tortilla is dry, flavorless, and adds nothing but a barely perceptible crunch. Raw wagyu with ponzu aioli, green olives, and truffle oil taste muddled. If you’re curious about the restaurant’s most popular dish, try it. photo credit: Patrick Wong Pyong Yang Naeng Myun If you want something to even out all of the meat, get this instead of the veggie platter. It’s solid and refreshing, and served with mustard and vinegar to add a bit of zing. Egg Souffle An off-menu item that you can just ask your server about. Tastes like a scrambled egg chawanmushi. It’s a decent dish, but you’re better off prioritizing the meat." - Patrick Wong