The glitz can’t save an awkward and disappointing meal at ABSteak - Review - San Francisco - The Infatuation
"ABSteak in Union Square is part of a global chain with a notable outpost in Vegas. So it’s no surprise that this Korean barbecue spot looks like something you’d find on the Strip. A black marble staircase leads to a cavernous dining room pulsing with K-pop, filled with glossy black tables, leather-bound chairs, and a floor-to-ceiling tubular glass wine case. But despite the glitz, a night at this place is disappointing. Beyond the design, every staff member goes through a month-long training program to grill your meat tableside. And while we appreciate that level of service, the experience is awkward. All conversation halts each time a staff member approaches your table and hovers, trying to make stilted small talk while searing some beef. It’s like a bad high school dance where no one’s sure what to do or say next. The food doesn’t rescue the vibe. Banchan is headlined by bland kimchi and pickled radish, and a $30 veggie platter you could find prepackaged at any big-box grocery store is a mistake. Your server will tell you to order the "AB pizza" with the confidence of a self-help seminar’s keynote speaker, but it’s just OK—a thin layer of wagyu draped across a saltine cracker-ish tortilla. ABSteak does, indeed, have steak, with pricey, high-quality cuts like 45-day whiskey-aged ribeye, wagyu bulgogi, and Australian picanha. While it’s decent, and we can recognize the thought behind the smokeless grills, the meat is not worth waiting through several minutes of strained silence. Make sure to eat everything as quickly as possible. The warming tray that each piece is transferred to is heated by what looks like a single tea light. With other fantastic Korean BBQ options, it’s hard to justify ABSteak’s steep prices, smaller portions, and uneasy service. If you’re looking for a showy dining room over a meal with substance, you’ll be just fine at ABSteak. Otherwise, your money and time are better spent elsewhere. Food Rundown Banchan The best one of these small plates is the house salad with citrusy dressing. Otherwise, everything else lacks spice and flavor. If banchan wasn’t included with every order of meat, we’d skip it. Meats The meat is undeniably premium: beautifully marbled and served with dipping salts and fancy sauces. Is it good? Yes. Is it good enough to return? No. But we do like the touch of the grill being swapped in between each course. photo credit: Ricky Rodriguez Vegetable Platter Sometimes, a meal with fatty, rich cuts of meat calls for some balance. Unfortunately, this $30 replica of a store-bought veggie pack is the wrong move. photo credit: Ricky Rodriguez AB Wagyu Pizza The dish that supposedly shot Chef Akira Back to steakhouse stardom. It’s fine. The tortilla is dry, flavorless, and adds nothing but a barely perceptible crunch. Raw wagyu with ponzu aioli, green olives, and truffle oil taste muddled. If you’re curious about the restaurant’s most popular dish, try it. Pyong Yang Naeng Myun If you want something to even out all of the meat, get this instead of the veggie platter. It’s solid and refreshing, and served with mustard and vinegar to add a bit of zing. photo credit: Patrick Wong Egg Souffle An off-menu item that you can just ask your server about. Tastes like a scrambled egg chawanmushi. It’s a decent dish, but you’re better off prioritizing the meat." - Patrick Wong
