ALL ROADS Pinseria + Enoteca
Italian restaurant · Brentwood
145 S Barrington Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90049
Highlights
Roman-inspired pinsas, salads, and Italian dishes with wine
Roman-inspired pinsas, salads, and Italian dishes with wine
"All Roads is the latest project from the 35-year-old Toscana Restaurant Group in Brentwood serving traditional Roman pinsas in a wine bar setting with an attached bottle shop. The Amatriciana brings together San Marzano tomatoes with guanciale, basil, and shallots, while the Mortadella includes pistachios, burrata, salsa verde, and silky, fat-studded cold cuts. The Bianca comes through for vegetarians with three kinds of cheeses, including fresh mozzarella, Parmigiano, and Challerhocker, along with caramelized onions and black pepper." - Eater Staff
"The newest restaurant from the Toscana group solidifies Brentwood as a bastion of Italian food with a gleaming all-glass exterior and a Roman-inspired menu that intentionally omits traditional pasta in favor of pinsa—airy flatbreads made from a blend of wheat, soy, and rice flours. Toppings range from mortadella, arugula, burrata, and prosciutto to my favorite of the night, a porcini mushroom pinsa with fior di latte mozzarella, sparse onion and potato for heft, and a sprinkling of chopped porcini and sausage that layers on meaty flavors; the whole flatbread is light enough for one person, but you’ll want to order several and share." - Eater Staff
"There’s usually a time, place, and budget for dinner at one of the many upscale trattorias along San Vicente, but All Roads is one of the few Brentwood Italian spots we’d send you to whenever. This all-day Roman pizzeria and wine bar from the Toscana people is casual (no white tablecloths) and only takes walk-ins. Light pours into the beige dining room through floor-to-ceiling windows, so you feel like a sunbathing tortoise as you nibble on antipasti. All Roads is pleasant and not too expensive by Brentwood standards, making it a good neighborhood go-to whenever you want to eat well and not think too hard about it. If you're aiming for a full meal here, base it around the Roman-style pies known as pinsas. The crust shatters like crispy focaccia that’s been inflated with air, the pomodoro is laid on thick, and toppings sway traditional, like anchovies, sausage, and handfuls of porcinis. The antipasti and salads are just as straightforward, including a pile of lightly fried artichokes and a shaved carrot and frisee salad massaged with lemony vinaigrette. The setting would be fine for a leisurely meal, but All Roads knows how to turn tables, too. The pinsas arrive fast, the friendly Italian servers check in every five minutes, and it feels like everyone here is doing the same thing: popping by for an easy, enjoyable meal. Food Rundown Carciofi alla Giudia There’s something satisfying about the way fried baby artichokes shatter when you bite into them. The golden, crispy leaves jut out, so the shaved pecorino and aioli get into every crevice. Carrot Salad A (non-fried) vegetable for the table is always a nice touch, and this tender carrot-forward salad does the trick. The lemony vinaigrette is just sweet enough, too. Rossa This pizza is for the tomato heads out there: the San Marzano sauce is tart, while the confit cherry tomatoes are jammy and sweet. There’s some anchovies and salty olives in the mix, too, but they’re more like salty backup singers. photo credit: Catherine Dzilenski Porcini The well-distributed toppings on this pinsa are key: you get a balance of sausage, sweet caramelized onion, and porcini mushrooms in each bite with the right amount of fresh mozarella." - Sylvio Martins
"A charming ode to Roman cuisine, All Roads opened Friday, July 26 at 145 S. Barrington Avenue in Brentwood and operates as a wine-bar with an attached bottle shop serving eight traditional Roman pinsas as its focus. The Toscana Restaurant Group, founded by Mike and Kathie Gordon in 1989, shaped a menu that includes an Amatriciana topped with San Marzano tomatoes, guanciale, basil, and shallots; a Mortadella pinsa with pistachios, burrata, salsa verde, and silky, fat-studded cold cuts; and a vegetarian-friendly Bianca with fresh mozzarella, Parmigiano, Challerhocker, caramelized onions, and black pepper. The pinsa dough—made from rice, soy, and wheat flours and fermented for several days—yields a light, crunchy crust with a focaccia-style juicy interior, prompting chef Marco Longinotti to call it “the fun uncle of Roman pizza.” In addition to all-day pinsas, three panini (available until 5 p.m.) use the same dough and feature fillings like porchetta and grilled zucchini; other Roman hits include suppli (deep-fried risotto balls), carciofi alla giudia (fried baby artichokes), and maritozzi for dessert. The menu was shaped by Longinotti and Luca Crestanelli, with Justino Quirino managing the kitchens, and sommelier Roberto Facciolla curated a nearly all-Italian wine list complemented by Paoletti soft drinks and August Notions beers custom-brewed for All Roads by SLO Brewing Co. The 1,900-square-foot space seats about 50, was designed by Candice Goodwin for Ralph Gentile Architects, and features a flying-donkey mural by Marco Lamberti and a warm color palette echoing Rome’s frescoes; the restaurant is open daily from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., and it’s walk-ins only, so be prepared to dive into the extensive wine list on arrival." - Cathy Chaplin
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