All Roads in Brentwood Is a Charming Ode to Roman Cuisine Serving Pinsa | Eater LA
"A charming ode to Roman cuisine, All Roads opened Friday, July 26 at 145 S. Barrington Avenue in Brentwood and operates as a wine-bar with an attached bottle shop serving eight traditional Roman pinsas as its focus. The Toscana Restaurant Group, founded by Mike and Kathie Gordon in 1989, shaped a menu that includes an Amatriciana topped with San Marzano tomatoes, guanciale, basil, and shallots; a Mortadella pinsa with pistachios, burrata, salsa verde, and silky, fat-studded cold cuts; and a vegetarian-friendly Bianca with fresh mozzarella, Parmigiano, Challerhocker, caramelized onions, and black pepper. The pinsa dough—made from rice, soy, and wheat flours and fermented for several days—yields a light, crunchy crust with a focaccia-style juicy interior, prompting chef Marco Longinotti to call it “the fun uncle of Roman pizza.” In addition to all-day pinsas, three panini (available until 5 p.m.) use the same dough and feature fillings like porchetta and grilled zucchini; other Roman hits include suppli (deep-fried risotto balls), carciofi alla giudia (fried baby artichokes), and maritozzi for dessert. The menu was shaped by Longinotti and Luca Crestanelli, with Justino Quirino managing the kitchens, and sommelier Roberto Facciolla curated a nearly all-Italian wine list complemented by Paoletti soft drinks and August Notions beers custom-brewed for All Roads by SLO Brewing Co. The 1,900-square-foot space seats about 50, was designed by Candice Goodwin for Ralph Gentile Architects, and features a flying-donkey mural by Marco Lamberti and a warm color palette echoing Rome’s frescoes; the restaurant is open daily from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., and it’s walk-ins only, so be prepared to dive into the extensive wine list on arrival." - Cathy Chaplin
