Jeff O.
Yelp
Strange but true: Until the opening of El Fish, Amsterdam Avenue from West 60th to West 70th had exactly zero sit-down restaurants. And even if we include every single spot selling sustenance, there isn't much more: Vanguard wine bar, which has small plates, is the next-closest thing to a full-blown restaurant, and the remaining options are a Starbucks, an H-Mart and a couple of tiny Chinese takeout joints.
Sure, there are real restaurants on some of the side streets and a block away on Broadway, but it's still a striking stretch of dining desolation, given that the thoroughfare's half-mile portion in the West 60s is lined from start to finish with huge residential beehives with abundant storefronts. There's also the fact that this 10-block section of Amsterdam Avenue includes Lincoln Center and its near-daily throngs of fine arts aficionados.
So, it's putting it mildly to say that El Fish has helped to fill a big void. Given the utterly enormous size of that void, pretty much any real restaurant would've been welcomed, but El Fish is far from run of the mill -- it's a stylish spot, it's got an uncommonly spacious dining room, its Mexican food is impressively creative, and it offers an ambiance of laid-back sophistication that really should be attractive for the aforementioned patrons of the opera, ballet, theater and philharmonic.
The menu is interesting in multiple respects, e.g., its prices range from very reasonable ($20 for a generous plate of lump crab, aioli, avocado and microgreens) to almost comically high ($20 for six littleneck clams).
In addition, the city's current dining ethos is very much reflected in the combination of a pescetarian focus and a maximalist approach to ingredients and plating. Ymmv on whether this is a good thing.
Take, for instance, the whole fried bass with bok choy and rice. A cynic might question the wisdom of cutting half the sea creature into nuggets that are fried separately, and then dousing everything in a refined Mexican version of General Tso's sauce, and squeezing all of that onto a platter alongside a mound of slightly damp rice and fronds of bok choy. But a different person might laud the creativity, and point out the lovely use of hominy kernels in the rice, and note that $40 is a very fair price for a plate that four people could share as a main.
I'll also draw your attention to the side of "Mexican greens," described as verdolagas, or purslane, which is a big bowl of long-stemmed greens with bewitching herbs and spices, and a welcome break from the usual side of spinach or broccoli or green beans.
As for beverages, I'll mention that my wife ordered a mocktail but was almost served a real cocktail, and that the server promptly brought the correct drink and then comped it when the check arrived. For some people, accidentally drinking alcohol would be a big problem -- akin to a vegetarian accidentally eating meat -- and so El Fish gets bonus points for taking the error seriously and responding professionally.
Overall, Amsterdam Avenue's dining landscape remains quite barren. But it's hard to imagine one restaurant changing the scenery more than El Fish.