Ryan M.
Yelp
If you've read my laudatory five-star review of the Pullman Market as a whole, then you already know my thoughts on its farm-to-market ethos and the ecosystem that feeds (quite literally) the eateries contained therein. If you can't be bothered to read that review (in which case, shame on you), then I'll summarize my thoughts in this introduction, as they come to bear on my experiences at Fife and Farro, the Pullman's full-service Italian restaurant. Put simply, every component of every dish at Fife and Farro is sourced from the Pullman and made from scratch on the premises. These components include the cheeses, cured meats, produce, and even the heritage grains that form the basis of the pasta dishes. I mention this because I often wonder if San Antonians understand the importance -- culturally, culinarily, environmentally -- of the Pullman's ecosystem. Indeed, I see a smattering of hastily written one-star reviews of Fife and Farro that complain of frivolities such as small portions (quantitatively untrue) or an occasional service hiccup, none of which I've experienced over the course of nine (!) visits. I suppose this is my long-winded, self-aggrandizing way of encouraging you to ignore the grammatically challenged naysayers and listen to me, a true gourmand with both the aesthetics to appreciate fine food and the expressive ability to convey what's so special about this restaurant. I have much to say but limited space in which to say it, so I will focus on several standout dishes.
Caesar salad (5.0): When visiting an Italian restaurant for the first time, I usually order a Caesar salad, as I consider it a good litmus test for the kitchen. The Caesar at Fife and Farro is unequivocally the best (and largest) I've had anywhere. The Romaine -- again, sourced locally -- is crisp and fresh; the dressing hits all the right notes (all major key notes of garlic, anchovy, and lemon); and the mountain of Grana Padano-inspired local cheese blankets the salad like a wispy halo of divinity.
Mozzarella (5.0): Though not specified on the menu, the mozzarella here is definitely of the whole-milk variety. Velvety and rich, the ball reminds me of burrata, such is its creaminess. Most places stick to the tried-and-true combination of mozzarella paired with tomatoes, but Fife and Farro foregoes tradition and pairs its mozz with cured cucumbers and roasted bell peppers. I appreciate the subtle acidity from the former and the sweetness from the latter, as both complement the cheese. When paired with house-made focaccia (sold separately), the cheese would likely comprise a full meal and satisfy most normal appetites.
Pizzas (5.0): All pizzas feature the same sourdough crust that's proofed on the premises and baked in a wood-fired oven, imparting the requisite char along the edges. The use of sourdough is not arbitrary, as it yields a pizza with more chew, a subtle tang, and a lower glycemic index than traditional yeast. On my first visit, my server strongly recommended the "Spicy Boy" pizza featuring house-cured picante salami and chopped Calabrian chilis. The pizza lived up to its name and was indeed a spicy boy! If you're in the mood for something more adventurous, then I highly recommend the "Sofie's Morty," a pie topped with stracciatella (shredded, creamy mozzarella), pistachios, and a veritable meat locker's supply of house-made mortadella. The stracciatella and mortadella arrive room temperature, which contrasts nicely with the heat of the crust.
Pastas (5.0): Every pasta dish I've ordered at Fife and Farro has arrived perfectly al dente. Choosing a favorite would be difficult, though I am partial to the Wagyu beef ragu with tagliatelle. The Wagyu beef shoulder -- sourced locally from the Pullman's butcher -- forms a rich, fatty body for the ragu, which I'm tempted to call "the best Bolognese ever" despite it not technically being a Bolognese. On one visit, the kitchen surprised me with a complimentary cacio e pepe, a traditional, deceptively simple dish of spaghetti tossed with Keystone cheese and black pepper. The high milk fat content of the cheese forms a thick, eggy sauce when paired with the residual pasta water. The unmistakable heat from the piperine (the alkaloid that gives black pepper its bite) balances out the creaminess of the dish.
Tiramisu (5.0): I'm tempted to resort to the old Yelp cliché, "If I could give ten stars, I would!!!", but I'll refrain from such inanity and convey to you in no uncertain terms that the tiramisu is indeed worthy of ten stars. The mascarpone is whipped to an airy consistency. The ladyfingers are saturated (but not soupy) with espresso. The whole dish is a transcendent experience likely intended for two normies or one gluttonous Ryan M. If you order only one item at Fife and Farro, make it the tiramisu. That is not a suggestion but a directive.
Alas, I have reached the character limit imposed by Yelp. Just go there and heed my recommendations!
