Carnitas Uruapan’s new Little Village location is now open | Eater Chicago
"After years of searching for a flagship location in the heart of La Villita, the father-and-son team of Inocencio and Marcos Carbajal have launched the next chapter in their restaurant’s 50-year history in a former concert venue for Mexican grupera acts, transforming a three-story 1920s-era art deco building (the former La Concordia) into an artful, spacious dining room that ownership hopes will remind visitors of home. The new space opened Monday, January 27, and—unlike the other two locations—adds cocktails and beer, with a beverage program by cantinero Luis “Luigi” Estrada (who has created bar menus at notable Mexican restaurants Tzuco and Kie Gol Lane). Estrada and Marcos Carbajal worked on draft cocktails that emphasize regional Mexican spirits like mezcal and charanda from Michoacán, using ingredients “that even an abuelita or tia can relate to,” says Estrada; the beverages also include micheladas and a lineup of Mexican beers, including a collaboration with Mexican American–owned Casa Humilde Cerveceria, which recently relocated to suburban Forest Park. For Marcos Carbajal, the second‑generation restaurateur whose father built the stalwart emporium for crispy golden carnitas, crunchy chicharrones, and craveable tacos dorados in Pilsen, expanding into Little Village feels like a full‑circle moment: “[Little Village] feels very much like a place where I’m at home, it’s almost like stepping back in time, it feels very familiar, with street vendors, you hear Spanish everywhere, it’s just kind of a throwback vibe for us,” says Carbajal. Designer Aida Napoles of AGN Design (who, according to Carbajal, grew up around the corner from the restaurant) created a culturally resonant interior: the backs of the booths use the same textile as a rebozo, chairs and banquettes are accentuated with ostrich leather frequently used for cowboy boots, walls are lined with custom-cut slabs of terracotta, and the dining room floor is hand-painted with a stencil pattern reminiscent of designs found on the patios of old homes in Mexico. A 40-foot exterior sign now proclaims La Villita, the dining room seats 150 with a corner patio for 50 and a private-events room, and there is parking across the street on two lots purchased by Carbajal; the upper levels are being renovated into apartments to bring in additional revenue. The building had been vacant for 15 years (with eight inches of standing water in the basement) when Carbajal purchased the property in 2021, and work has been done to restore the decaying façade and reuse materials that offer an homage to Mexican culture. The food menu at the new location remains the same as the family’s established offerings; the business was founded by Inocencio “El Guero” Carbajal in 1975 after he immigrated in 1969, drawing on a recipe he learned from his grandfather and an uncle who ran a carnicería in Uruapan in the 1940s and ’50s to deliver “a real taste of Michoacán.” Carbajal has focused expansion on neighborhoods where the Mexican community has migrated (a 2019 location opened in Gage Park), and he notes: “When people actually visit from Mexico, they’re impressed how it’s, you know, it’s a real taste of Michoacán. It’s because we have a direct line, a great direct lineage that goes back to Michoacán.” Open hours: 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., Monday–Thursday; 9 a.m. to 4 p.m., Friday; 8 a.m. to 5 p.m., weekends." - Serena Maria Daniels