Jason M.
Yelp
I'm a big fan of Dominique Ansel - I've been a customer of his bakeries for years, periodically picking up treats whenever I'm in the vicinity and regularly attending his annual Pie Night in SoHo. It goes without saying, then, that I made it my intention to check out Papa d'Amour once I heard it had opened. I was in the area the other day and looking for a little treat, and took it as an opportunity to check it out.
While Dominique is primarily known for his sweet treats, Papa d'Amour serves more of a savory mix of pastries - similar to his now-closed Dominque Ansel Kitchen. Additionally, there is a mix of French and Taiwanese influences here - paying homage to his love of Asian bread culture and his children who are Taiwanese and French.
I came at the right time, since I usually see lines into this place on social media - but I walked into an empty bakery and was able to be taken care of right away (it filled up though a short while after I arrived). The space itself is lovely - somewhat bright with an open area to stand and look at the treats; they also have a few tables inside and (maybe) a couple outside. In addition to the goods, there's some Dominique merch for sale.
I was unfamiliar with most of the bakes, but the team member who was helping me made some good recommendations - I decided to get three items: the taro and mochi lace batter donut (noted as their best-seller), the scallion basil blossom, and the kurobuta hot dog spiral. I was given the option to get the latter two warmed up which I took, and after a short wait they were ready.
All of the pastries were pretty good; the doughnut had a good contrast of textures between the crispy exterior batter and the soft interior mochi; this was my least favorite pastry, however, as it lacked flavor and leaned too much into the fried category for me. The scallion basil blossom had better flavor; the filling was somewhat minimal though but I think it worked as it balanced out with the pastry. The kurobata was definitely the most ornate - the idea of sticky rice underneath the hot dog was interesting as it's carb-on-carb action, but it all worked together well. I also ordered an iced coffee which was good.
Service was great, everyone was friendly which I expected from one of Dominique's shops. Overall, I had a good experience at Papa d'Amour - personally I prefer his offerings at the Bakery, but he's doing something unique here and tapping into a market that is relatively new to the area (for me, at least). If you're a DA fan I would definitely check them out, and if I find myself in the area again I wouldn't be against returning.