19 SAINT ROCH.
Restaurant · Place Vendome ·
Neo-bistro with open kitchen, creative dishes, natural wines
Neo-bistro with open kitchen, creative dishes, natural wines
"Chef Pierre Touitou is wise beyond his 30-something years. Raised in a French-Tunisian family and cooking since adolescence, he brings a worldly sensibility to 19 Saint-Roch , his polished yet spirited take on the modern bistro. Touitou takes his formal fine-dining experience and varied repertoire — spanning Parisian classics through more Mediterranean influences — and applies them to a slick dining room with an open kitchen at its heart. Dishes combine only a few ingredients at a time but pack big flavor, like the braised beef chuck entirely coated in an earthy sauce made from jute mallow leaves (commonly used in the Tunisian dish mloukhîya , close to the chef’s heart) and served as a trompe l’oeil of bistro classic lièvre à la royale . Be sure to save room to order the ile flottante (floating island), with the meringue presented as a cube floating on a sea of crème anglaise infused with smoked Béarn chile pepper. Just before serving, Touitou drizzles the top with sesame praline. A perfect finish." - Lindsey Tramuta
"Pierre Touitou – one of the emblematic chefs of the new Parisian bistronomy – has already made his mark on the trendiest echelons of the capital's restaurant scene (Vivant etc). Black and white floor tiles pave the way to an open kitchen separated off with a stainless steel-topped counter – eat here for a front row view of the action in the kitchen. The chef and his brigade can be seen conjuring up food in a fresh, creative vein. The seasonings and condiments leave nothing to chance – eg the house-made harissa on the ox tongue and spinachpkaila(Jewish Tunisian stew), or the fresh peas with capers, toasted pine nuts and barberry that accompany the bonito. As you would expect, natural wines take pride of place. Pure dining pleasure." - Michelin Inspector
"In the years since Pierre Touitou left his perch at Vivant Deux and Déviant, diners wondered when he’d return with a solo project. It would take a few years and a stint at Luma Arles, but the chef is back with this slick neo-bistro tucked between the Tuileries Gardens and the Palais Royal. Touitou and his team prepare an ever-changing roster of dishes from an open kitchen, concentrating on only a few ingredients or condiments at once. The lo bak go, a Chinese turnip cake served like panisse, is a hit among the starters, ideally followed by the braised beef shoulder served with a side of pkaila (stewed spinach) blended with beef tongue. Get the Clery strawberries topped with turmeric ice cream and crunchy honeycomb for dessert. Located in the 1st arrondissement." - Lindsey Tramuta
New Pierre Touitou restaurant, apparently quite good
