19 SAINT ROCH.

2 Days in Paris: Authentic Bistros and Hidden Gems Locals Love

"Chef Pierre Touitou is wise beyond his 30-something years. Raised in a French-Tunisian family and cooking since adolescence, he brings a worldly sensibility to 19 Saint-Roch , his polished yet spirited take on the modern bistro. Touitou takes his formal fine-dining experience and varied repertoire — spanning Parisian classics through more Mediterranean influences — and applies them to a slick dining room with an open kitchen at its heart. Dishes combine only a few ingredients at a time but pack big flavor, like the braised beef chuck entirely coated in an earthy sauce made from jute mallow leaves (commonly used in the Tunisian dish mloukhîya , close to the chef’s heart) and served as a trompe l’oeil of bistro classic lièvre à la royale . Be sure to save room to order the ile flottante (floating island), with the meringue presented as a cube floating on a sea of crème anglaise infused with smoked Béarn chile pepper. Just before serving, Touitou drizzles the top with sesame praline. A perfect finish." - Lindsey Tramuta