Shunji Japanese Cuisine

"Longtime West LA chef Shunji Nakao moved his upscale omakase restaurant to Ocean Park Boulevard in Santa Monica, with an intimate counter starting at $295 per person to sit in front of the master chef. Expect near-perfect quality nigiri and Nakao’s careful construction and proper balance between fish and rice." - Matthew Kang

"Freshly relocated, Shunji lives on as a notable Japanese counter manned by a chef whose experience runs deep. Inside, a sliding wood partition divides the space into two sections—both standard minimalist in décor, starring beige walls, a dark brown ceiling and that beloved blonde matte wood counter. While the two counters both offer an excellent omakase, the smaller counter run by LA sushi veteran, Chef Shunji Nakao, is the one to beat. Begin with a handful of bites, like sesame tofu or smoked King mackerel with dots of green onion and ginger sauce. Then move on to the nigiri, of which sea perch and sea eel are both exemplary. Finish with soup tailed by dessert. The quality of product and flavor combinations are anything but standard (as are the prices)." - Michelin Inspector

"Shunji might be the only sushi restaurant in LA where the cost of your meal depends on which chef is slicing the fish. This mellow, blonde wood sushi counter in Santa Monica is divided into two rooms with a handful of seats on each side: one where you can book an omakase with chef Shunji for $280, and another where chef Miko (Shunji’s longtime co-chef) serves you for $250 a pop. If you’re wondering why anyone would pay that extra $30, you probably haven’t met Shunji—not only does he make some of the city’s best sushi, he’s as quick with humor as he is with his knife. The omakase at Shunji generally split into two parts: a few seasonal small dishes that come on gorgeous little ceramic plates, then a bunch of nigiri to follow. The delicate and subtle dishes like abalone with wasabi and edamame, or matsutake mushroom and eggplant in dashi, are definitely pleasant, but they’re a bit like the opening act at your favorite band’s concert—they’re not the real reason you’re here. For the most part, the 16-or-so pieces of nigiri you’ll have at Shunji are presented without any bells and whistles: there’s lean marinated tuna that’s been aged two weeks, warm black throat perch that’s barely seared, and some extremely plump and sweet uni from Santa Barbara. But like that annoying record-collecting guy explaining why everything sounds better on vinyl, we can sum up why Shunji’s sushi is so life-altering in one word: texture. The fish melts on your tongue like a popsicle during a heatwave and the subtle, vinegar-kissed rice feels like a hug from a long-lost relative. And we can safely say that the toro-filled handroll with crisp, toasted seaweed that comes at the end of the meal transports us to another dimension entirely. Spending two hours in a small room while someone brandishes a knife in front of you might not sound like everyone’s idea of fun, but Shunji has a way of injecting a little levity into the very-serious-omakase-experience (small talk is encouraged, for one). And though we miss the old days when Shunji used to offer lunch specials, the dinner-only omakase here is more than worth the splurge if you’re looking for an incredible special occasion meal. As to which chef you book, they’re both certified seafood surgeons, so go with whoever is available first—reservations tend to fill out a week or two in advance. " - Garrett Snyder

"He notes that local sushi restaurants like Shunji Japanese Cuisine, Morihiro, and the Brothers Sushi practice classic Japanese aging traditions." - Jean Trinh

"Freshly relocated, Shunji lives on as a notable Japanese counter manned by a chef whose experience runs deep. The space features two sections—one is run by chef Miki Takahiro, while the second, smaller counter is in the hands of chef Shunji Nakao. Both offer an excellent omakase." - The MICHELIN Guide