The Paper Bridge (Bún Chả Cầu Giấy)
Vietnamese restaurant · Buckman ·
Authentic Northern Vietnamese fare, including pho & bun cha
Authentic Northern Vietnamese fare, including pho & bun cha
"Fresh, springy rice noodles made in-house are the first thing that stand out here, followed by an enormous 14-page menu whose latter half dives into the history and components of Northern Vietnamese dishes, best navigated either by reading or by asking the server for guidance. Meals can start brightly with morning glory (rau muống), either pickled (rau muống ngâm chua ngọt) or sauteed with garlic (rau muống xào tỏi), and nearly foot-long quẩy nóng fritters that arrive crispy and warm, perfect for dipping into chile-studded nước chấm or saving to soak in pho broth. The West Lake-style rolled pho noodles (phở cuốn tây hồ) showcase those fresh noodles, delicately wrapped around tender slices of beef with herbs and lettuce for a fresh, herbaceous bite. For a Hanoi classic, bún chả Hà Nội comes with tangles of noodles and bite-sized cuts of grilled pork to dip into a fish sauce broth, while the pho lineup ranges widely; standouts include phở Nam Định, with three cuts of beef in a marrow-rich broth, and phở Việt Cao Bằng, pairing roast duck leg with a pork and duck broth. The restaurant takes its beverage program seriously, offering a tropical-leaning cocktail list, an expansive selection of infused rice wines and imported beers, and a formidable tea and coffee menu spanning traditional and modern options. Recently thrust into the national spotlight by major press, it has become harder to book, making Resy notifications or a lunchtime visit a smart strategy." - Kaitlin Bray
"The Paper Bridge serves Northern Vietnamese delicacies rarely seen in Portland. Yes, there’s phở, but the subtle, Chinese-influenced dishes the region is known for are what shine. You’ll find Hai Phong-style spring rolls stuffed with local Dungeness crab and plump grilled oysters topped with scallion oil, crushed peanuts, and pork rinds akin to what’s served in Hạ Long, each with an encyclopedic breakdown on the back of the menu. Go with a group so you can try lots of little bites, followed by a larger dish like the Chả Cá Lã Vọng, a whole turmeric-marinated fish, sizzling with dill and scallions. The subterranean space is ideal for casual dinners, thanks to woven baskets, hanging plants, and added visual intrigue from the row of giant glass vessels on the counter full of rice wine steeping with rose myrtle and mulberries." - Krista Garcia
"Hanoi’s cầu giấy (paper bridge in English) district served as not just the namesake for one of Portland’s most popular new Vietnamese destinations, but also the ambiance and dishes. Co-owners and co-chefs Quynh Nguyen and Carlo Reinardy make their own rice noodles, bringing over 20 years of experience as a chef to the kitchen for dishes including bún chả and Vân Đình-style grilled duck served with glass noodles." - Janey Wong
"A Vietnamese charcuterie plate blends housemade Vietnamese and lap xuong sausages, pork hock, and pâté with unexpected elements—shiitake mushroom floss, pickled morning glory, and strings of cheche (a smoky cheese with Soviet ties). The menu also recommends pairing with banh ran man (fried stuffed rice cakes) for an elevated round of drinking snacks." - Eater Staff
"Opening on Thursday, November 9 at 828 SE Ash Street in inner Southeast Portland, I see the Paper Bridge as an homage to the food of Hanoi’s Cầu Giấy district and Northern Vietnam created by Quynh Nguyen and chef Carlo Reinardy. The menu aims to introduce Portlanders to regional dishes rarely seen in the city — from phở chiên phồng (rice noodles puffed, fried, and smothered with a light gravy) and Vân Đình‑style grilled duck with glass noodles, chive flowers, daylilies, and bamboo consomme, to the iconic Hanoian bún chả — and it also highlights multiple regional pho variations (a Lang Son‑style sour pho tossed with fried sweet potatoes, peanuts, and herbs and served with smoked pork and pickled chile sauce; Nam Định’s beefy‑broth pho; and a Cao Bằng preparation with pork and duck). Because many ingredients are indigenous to Vietnam, they’re partnering with suppliers there to import components and are making others in‑house: house‑fermented chiles are turned into four distinct chili sauces tailored to different uses, and months of research (including techniques from Nguyen’s cousin and a rice‑noodle machine developed by a Vietnamese mechanics professor) produced a variety of house‑made rice noodles — Reinardy even compares perfect rice noodles to making a perfect croissant. Beverage offerings reinforce the regional focus, from tea picked from 100‑year‑old heritage trees and smoked in bamboo cane to custom coffee blends roasted in Ho Chi Minh City for drinks like cà phê trứng and iced coconut coffee, plus rượu infused with wild mountain apple, rose myrtle, or mulberry. The dining room mirrors Vietnam’s dichotomy with one section evoking alleyway street‑food scenes (low plastic stools spilling onto sidewalks) and another “garden” with traditional seating, hanging plants, and paper lanterns; the restaurant occupies the same building that houses Bar Casa Vale and Scotch Lodge." - Janey Wong