TSURUTOKAME

Tsuru to Kame, a Japanese Kappo-Style Restaurant Run by an All-Female Staff

"Set along Ginza Namiki-dori, this kappo-style restaurant is run entirely by an all-female team led by second-generation head chef Atsumi Saito, who has been here since opening and became head chef in 2022, fulfilling the owner’s long-held dream of a female-staffed restaurant in a male-dominated field. Traditional interiors—an ajiro (woven-wood) ceiling and kyokabe earthen walls typical of top Japanese restaurants—frame two seasonal omakase courses; the hassun appetizers often arrive with a piece of washi bearing haiku or tanka penned with a calligraphy brush by Saito and the staff, personalized for each guest to spark conversation and heighten awareness of the seasons. Seasonal terms like Japanese icefish and firefly squid appear in the poems, reinforcing how closely the cooking is tied to nature and inviting diners to feel that connection. Drawing on a childhood steeped in cuisine—her father cooked at Asuka, a restaurant in the same group—Saito fosters a collaborative, friendship-like culture that makes nurturing young cooks easier; after morning prep she organizes lessons in tea ceremony, calligraphy, haiku, tanka, reading Kojiki, chorus, and English to ground the team in the cultural and liberal-arts roots of Japanese cuisine and convey the 24 micro-seasons. With a staff all in their twenties and dreaming of opening their own restaurants, the place positions itself as a bridge to the future; even its name—crane and turtle—symbolizes longevity and the intent to hand down Japanese culinary tradition for a thousand, even ten thousand, years." - Kyoko Nakayama

"The name means ‘crane and turtle’ and derives from a Japanese folktale in which a crane from the wider world (the guest) befriends a turtle in a pond (the chefs). It reflects the ladies’ desire to spread Japanese culture through Japanese cuisine, so appetiser platters are arranged like the decorations of traditional events. The gracious service puts you immediately at ease. The crane and turtle are a symbol of good fortune. At birthday parties, happiness is sure to descend on your table." - Michelin Inspector

D.C. Food Writers Reveal Their Best Restaurant Meals of 2022 | Eater DC

"My favorite meal on a recent trip to Japan was at Tsurutokame in Tokyo: the kaiseki tasting menu is incredible, the kitchen is led entirely by women (which is rare), and there is an energy and spirit that goes far beyond the food." - Adele Chapin

Kuniko Yagi Moved From Tokyo to the U.S. for Love But Became a Chef Instead | Bon Appétit

"A Tokyo kaiseki restaurant notable for being all-female and for its cheerful, lively counter atmosphere—guests talk and young chefs are un-intimidated—offering an alternative to the traditionally silent, male-dominated kaiseki setting and serving as an example for evolving industry norms." - ByKuniko Yagi