At Yakitori Restaurant Torien, Visit Tokyo Without Leaving New York City - AFAR
"Set behind an unassuming Lower East Side entrance, this sleek 16-seat yakitori spot stages a two-hour, 13-course omakase that combines theatrical grillwork with meticulous Japanese craft. Chefs perform with the precision of musicians—salting skewers from above, cracking onyx-black binchotan charcoal and fanning it over high-end grills—while much of the service, equipment, and seasonings (wood, plates, rice cookers, soy sauce, sansho and chili) are imported from Japan to reproduce the Tokyo original. The menu, which changes daily, begins with a chicken-breast gazpacho with tomato, plum, bell pepper, garlic and cucumber and moves through individually distinct, grill-kissed skewers such as kashiwa (thigh), kata (shoulder), nami (neck skin), sunagimo (gizzard), tsukune (ground chicken), chicken heart, tebasaki (wing), shiitake, okra, zucchini and kamo (duck breast). Seasoning is kept minimal—soy sauce cut with sesame oil, dashi and water is brushed on in intervals—so each skewer’s unique flavor stands out; finishers like soboro don, tori soba and tori chazuke can be added for an extra fee. The staff and chefs speak Japanese, the dining room is designed like a stage with black walls and focused lighting (an eight-seat private room is available), reservations are accepted online, and the omakase is priced at $150 per person." - Katherine LaGrave
