Dar Tazi

"To immerse yourself in the life of a Moroccan housewife, take a stroll through the fresh-produce market of R’cif, whichwindsthrough the lower part of the Fes medina. Plan to arrive by 10 a.m.when the market really getsgoing(by 11:30 a.m., it’s packed). In addition to browsing stalls of plump fruit and vegetables from farms in the Middle Atlas, you cansnackhere, too: hot trid— a gossamer-thin pastry baked over aroundedclay pot or“egg”—and irresistible meloui (multiple layers of dough that become soft and flaky as they are cooked) stuffed with spiced onions. Don't missseeingthe infamously grumpy camel butcher whose signageis a real camel's head hanging from a hook. Around lunchtime, mastermind your way deep into the souks to find the Achabine area, where the city’s best street food vendors ply their trade. The dishesserved up here built this city and continue to do so every lunchtime: comforting bessara (split-pea or broad-bean soup) and harira (a Moroccan staple of chickpeas, lentils, and lamb broth); sardines doused in charmoula and deep-fried until crunchy; hard-boiled eggs dipped in cumin. Come in the evening if you crave bite-sized brochettes of tender lamb and spiced liver."