Someone Please Stop Me From Eating All the Gildas at Adarra | Bon Appétit

"At this Richmond bar the gildas — the iconic Spanish skewers of fat white anchovy, pickled guindilla pepper, and a briny green olive — are a standout, typically accompanied by a glass of Emilio Hidalgo fino sherry. Chef Randall Doetzer has dialed them into a perfectly salty, buttery, lip-tinglingly sour, and slightly spicy bite by constantly tinkering with the three elements to achieve the right balance of fat, acid, and salt. Because the olives, peppers, and tinned anchovies are seasonal or depend on importers, he regularly swaps varieties (about three kinds of peppers, four kinds of olives, and two anchovy types since the dish debuted a few months ago), and the ongoing hunt for new ingredients is treated as part of the fun rather than a chore. The reviewer and a companion polished off six skewers and wished they had ordered many more." - ByElyse Inamine