Chambar | Bon Appétit

"GO HERE: for fine dining with cheek. Chef Nico Schuermans weaves together Belgian, North African, Persian, and Mediterranean influences, and the result is consistently excellent food. Unrelenting attention to detail is Chambar’s hallmark, applied both to the restaurant’s food and its atmosphere. ORDER THE: mussels Congolaise with frites (a side of sourdough for broth-dipping is essential), the tajine d’aziz à l’agneau (lamb shank tagine), and the flétan et noix de cajoux (halibut with cashews and pomegranate molasses). The morning options are imaginative and skillfully executed—think the gaufre au saumon with yuzu-dill hollandaise and bol santé with savory granola and a marinated egg. Not everyone has caught on to the fact they now do brunch, so seize the moment. THE VIBE IS: slightly racy and rebellious. It’s fine dining that doesn’t take itself too seriously, set to ’60s soul and served by a team that always seems like they’re all in on some wicked secret. They’ve been doing things their own way since 2004. Schuermans and his business partner and wife, Karri, have managed to make each section feel intimate despite the large space, with a gilded interior of wood, brick, tile, and a constellation of sculptural lighting. PRACTICAL STUFF: Open every day, from 8 a.m. to late (a.k.a. whenever the Schuermans’ party is over). Reservations accepted online or by phone. —Lindsay Anderson" - Condé Nast