Enrique Olvera’s New Tortilleria, Molino el Pujol, Is Doing It Old School | Bon Appétit
"Molino el Pujol looks like something out of a Wes Anderson movie: a tiny white building, its name neatly hand-painted in black beneath a single Edison bulb, fronted by a large three-pronged cactus. Locals sit at sidewalk tables eating fluffy tamales and elote dressed in a creamy, earthy sauce made from chicatana ants, a Oaxacan delicacy. The tacos are simple: sliced avocado on a blue corn tortilla pressed with hoja santa, a large herby leaf considered sacred in Mesoamerican mythology. Plain tortillas wrapped in newspaper are sold by the kilo for customers to take home. Molino el Pujol also supplies all the masa for its namesake restaurant, Pujol. Traditional tortilleria processes are honored here despite the sleek design and international pedigree." - ByHilary Cadigan
