The Inn at Middleton Place

"How did it strike you on arrival?Though quite close to the city, this inn feels worlds away, and that's the point. Guests enter on a dirt road, past impressive horse stables and sprawling live oaks, through a coded gate, and pull up to a cluster of ivy-covered, design-savvy structures, with the Ashley River just beyond. A pathway connects the inn to the famous "Butterfly Lakes" of America's earliest landscaped gardens, Middleton Place, which clearly is the main draw here. After the daytime tourists have left, you have the grounds to yourself, to chase sheep or tiptoe past groggy juvenile alligators or get lost in a maze of camellias. Nice. What’s the crowd like?Roadtrippers, nature enthusiasts, history buffs, photographers. The good stuff: Tell us about your room.My 2nd floor "Grand Room" faced the river. Floor-to-ceiling wrap-around windows let the outside in. Retractable cedar shutters open by day and close for privacy by night, glowing orange in the evening lamplight. How about the little things, like mini bar, or shower goodies. Any of that find its way into your suitcase?The inn was no doubt visionary when it opened in 1987, but now feels a tad dated (the VCR player made me chuckle). Rooms are quirky and full of contradictions: huge but with tiny TVs, an eight-foot-wide bathroom counter but only one sink, window blinds that bump into each other when opened, and custom-tiled tubs so large that even a six-foot-tall person could float in them belly up. That said, I slept like a baby in my cushy queen bed, woke up to birdsong, made myself coffee with the in-room Keurig, and pretended I was a mermaid in the tub, with Beekman toiletries to boot. It was a good stay. Wi-Fi is free but sporadic. Being "unplugged" helped me focus on "glamping" (glamorous camping). Room service: Worth it?Guests can eat a hearty breakfast or lunch at the Lake House, a short walk away, or head to the Clubhouse nearby for drinks and snacks (think wine and a game of chess, or beer and croquet). Also on the grounds is The Restaurant at Middleton Place, praised for its southern, seasonal, local fare, which will deliver to the room if you give them enough notice. Anything stand out about other services and features? Whether it’s childcare, gyms, spas, even parking—whatever stuck with you.The pool isn't heated, but it's a great place to relax in summer, since it's situated on a lower terrace by the river. The Lake House restaurant for lunch and dinner is more stick-to-your-ribs satisfaction than it is artisanal. For a truly indulgent, thoughtfully sourced Southern meal, walk over to The Restaurant at Middleton Place, for the likes of fried quail, toothsome shrimp and grits, Lowcountry Captain, and Hoppin' John. Bottom line: worth it, and why?Not exactly hi-tech, but that’s not the goal here. With the right mindset, you’ll fall in love with this place: peace, quiet, gardens, nature, kayaks, bikes, hammocks strung between oaks and magnolias, a filling southern breakfast, and a stellar fine dining restaurant through the woods. It's worth more than a one-night stay, especially if you want to visit all three adjacent historic plantations (Middleton Place, Magnolia Plantation and Gardens, and Drayton Hall)." - Allston McCrady