"On the advice of an affable Native Alaskan taxi driver, we breakfast at Gwennie's, where there's a wealth of frontier kitsch—gold-and-black eagle-print wallpaper with stuffed moose, musk ox, and bear heads; black-and-white photos of bygone mushing teams. We feast on stacks of pancakes with birch syrup, surrounded by men in plaid, whose furry flap-eared hats look like they might jump down and run off with our bacon."
