Amankila

"Start us off with the basics—what's this place about?
Wend your way to Bali’s less-explored and truly rural east coast; just after the almost-hidden sign for Amankila has nudged you to turn off the road, the dramatic watery horizon comes into view. With greenery stretching for miles below and the island of Nusa Penida in the distance, this is the paradise travelers dream of—a world away from traffic-clogged, built-up Seminyak and Nusa Dua. One of the original Aman resorts, whose name means "peaceful hill," remains as charming as ever. Wow. Tell us more: What makes it so charming? What's the vibe?Architect Ed Tuttle’s walkways zig-zag up the hillside; thatching and paras-stone walls feel like a welcome respite from the glitz of Bali's showier and more corporate-feeling luxury resorts. The design of the three-tier infinity pool was inspired by the nearby water palace at Ujung and sacred Mount Agung. As tranquil as this spirit-lifting sanctuary may be, try to tear yourself away and let the hotel plan an offsite excursion; say, a guided cycling tour through pristine rice paddies, a landscape punctuated by Balinese Hindu temples. The design sounds striking. How are the rooms themselves?
Staggered on a hillside frothing with frangipani and bougainvillea are 34 standalone alang-alang-roofed villa suites. Even the entry-level Garden Suites are a cut above, but for a truly unforgettable experience, the Kilasari Suite, named after Amankila’s main temple, has a lovely sea-view infinity pool. There’s no dazzling you with hi-tech frippery; rather, here the luxury is a feeling that comes from having your own villa and private terrace. Rooms have sophisticated furniture with inlaid coconut and shell, ensuite bathrooms nearly as large as the sleeping quarters.

 The two-bedroom Amankila Suite opens onto a large terrace with a private pool—perfect for celebrity families, including, as the rumor goes, one very famous retired English soccer player and his wife, a former Spice Girl. You know what would make a celebrity-endorsed experience even better? A good meal, and a strong drink.Order a mangosteen martini to toast your unmistakably Balinese setting—and your good fortune to be staying at an Aman. Then, in the open-air restaurant, feast on just-caught seafood, suckling pig, satay skewers, and sambals. There's also a good selection of Mediterranean food, including pizzas and pastas done right. How's the service?Much of the staff has worked here since the property opened—nearly a generation ago. Everyone is ridiculously hospitable. Who else are you likely to see here?Aman junkies: an elite jetset who are hooked on Aman's stealth luxury retreats. Aman properties have hosted royals, world leaders, and celebrities, and that's certainly the case here. What's the caveat?This hotel is undeniably expensive—if you can't afford an Aman, it's probably not the one to stretch for. For those who can, you're paying for tranquillity and exclusivity, rather than fancy facilities. Any other amenities of note?There's an outdoor gym and an impressive lap pool. The Beach Club occupies a vast stretch of private, powder-soft black volcanic sand. There’s no spa, but you can book an excellent Balinese massage or an inspired wellness session, including yoga. Throughout the property are countless leafy corners that encourage mindfulness and meditation. Bottom line: Worth it? Why?This is a class-act Bali experience." - Juliet Kinsman