"In a notoriously male-dominated industry, in a town long ignored by the national food media, Jennifer Jasinski was the first Denverite to break the Mile High glass ceiling and win a James Beard Award for Best Chef Southwest in 2013. If you know that, it’s no doubt the reason you’ve come to Rioja, a modern Mediterranean fixture on Larimer Square; if you don’t, you’ll figure it out soon enough. The artichoke tortelloni here, bathed in white-truffle brodo, is a signature delicacy; so is the cardamom-scented pork belly over garbanzo puree. But the juxtaposition of robust and almost dainty elements, vitality and delicacy, in both the artful plating and the play of flavors extends to Rioja’s entire repertoire, best paired with a Spanish wine from partner Beth Gruitch’s smart list." - Ruth Tobias
