"It’s dusk in Larapuna—the Bay of Fires on Tasmania’s remote northeast coast—and I’m looking out over the region’s iconic tangerine-hued coastline from the top of a lighthouse. The lichen-mapped granite boulders and the azure Tasman Sea stretching beyond come together to form the quintessential image of wild, untouched Tasmania. It’s a vista that has been drawing ever greater numbers of travelers to Australia’s smallest and most southern island state in recent years. But it’s also a vista that also holds the tragic past of lutruwita, as Tasmania is known by the local Aboriginal palawa—which I learned on the first day of this three-day guided winter walk with the Indigenous-owned and -operated company wukalina Walk."