"It begins with a subtle shift from indigo to violet, starlight fading in the night sky. Silhouettes of dragons appear on the horizon: the jagged limestone karsts of Phang Nga Bay. The Andaman Sea is seemingly lit from beneath in a preternatural shade of cerulean. In a flash of scarlet and flame orange, the day arrives, greeted by the unfurling of lotus flowers and the calls of hornbills, kingfishers, and coucals. I’m not an early riser, but I would change the habits of a lifetime if every morning looked like those at Six Senses Yao Noi. The sunrises are just one of the reasons I’m always angling to return to this tropical-island resort. Others include the breezy villas with their driftwood canopied beds, sunken sea-view bathtubs, and decks large enough to cartwheel across; the sunny staff who make guests feel only-child special; and the communal half-moon infinity pool set high in the hills forming a crescent above the bay. Then there’s the spa, cleaved into the hillside and offering lemongrass teas, hot herbal massages, and wellness rituals (my favorite is the Signature Yao Noi Journey, with its coconut scrub and Thai herbal steam) that last for hours and leave me glassy-eyed, in a good way. The food mostly comes from local fishermen or the hotel’s gardens, mushroom hut, and chicken coop—poached Phuket lobster in coconut broth, perhaps, or hot-and-sour grouper curry. To spend time here is a joy—a reminder of the beauty of nature and the possibilities that arrive with each new dawn. Doubles from $590. —Lee Cobaj" - CNT Editors
