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"In a city where restaurants can easily fall into two distinct categories—modern pretentious or tourist trap—La Perla ai Bisatei, an old-style spit-and-sawdust place in the backstreets of Murano, is a pleasant surprise. It’s loud—the voices of locals compete with staff shouting out the unwritten daily menu—and the food (only lunch) is hearty rather than refined. But outsiders are greeted with the same gruff-but-cheery welcome as old-timers. Try the fava bean and onion salad and the pasta with mussels and clams." - Anne Hanley