"Set the scene: What's the deal with this place? It's a real pioneer in experiential wilderness lodges, with a startlingly stark desert setting. You arrive under one of those extraordinary desert skies—planets, stars, the moon, satellites. A fire-pit has been lit for the evening chill, with people gathering around it to talk about travels past and future. An inn far from anywhere. That sounds divine. Is there a story behind it all? It opened in 2007, one of the early super-luxe hotels in the desert. Its genesis actually came about when Ana Sainz de Vicuña Bemberg—the low-profile, high-net-worth former owner of Argentina’s Quilmes brewery—dreamed of opening up a B&B. Director Matías de Cristóbal persuaded her to go for an African safari-style approach, rather than the usual adult-summer-camp approach of some adventure lodges. Got it. What can we expect from the bedrooms? The design takes inspiration from nearby pre-Inca ruins, the architect working with a local historian to nail the shape—rounded, smooth against the wind—and source the right natural materials: adobe, stone, thatch, and cactus wood. My villa was one of 10, with a private patio, outdoor shower, comfy big armchairs, and alpaca blankets. The Atacama region is about three main colors: blue, white, and desert. The hotel is currently expanding, keeping the same number of rooms, but moving them all to one side of the road. An iPad loaded with a stargazing app came in super-handy. Fun! How about the food and drink? On the South American foodie line-up, Chilean food doesn’t shout quite as loudly as Peruvian, Bolivian, or Amazonian scenes, but chef Juan Pablo Mardones is on a mission to source herbs and roots from the desert biome—and uses quinoa and other Andean grains in his dishes. Crisp-fresh fish and seafood ceviches, plus Peruvian causas and Asian-tinged stir-fries, are served alongside pasta, grilled meat, and salmon. The drinks list is stupendous, with superb merlots and malbecs from farther south, and good piscos. All meals are included and really, there’s no need to go into San Pedro except for a beer, perhaps, and to soak up the commotion. It seems like this place has it all. Anything to say about the service? Seven staff to each guest means you’re never left wanting. Everything runs like clockwork, from check-in to chats about expert-led excursions—from visits to petroglyphs and geysers to hot-air ballooning. Outdoor picnics, with wine, were wonderful, and I’d definitely go back to swim, or rather float, in the salty Cejar lagoon again. Seven—wow! What type of person stays here? Well-traveled adventurers, deep-pocketed drifters, and dream-highway drivers—but, above all, the tribe here is deeply into huge landscapes and big skies, day and night. Sun and stars, lagoons and desert: Nothing else really intrudes on these vistas. Those who want valleys and clutter can go elsewhere. Download some electronic ambient music, and a bit of cosmic white noise for peering through the VLT (Very Large Telescope). These guests sound super chill. What’s the area around the hotel like? Central San Pedro is lively verging on overwrought. It’s fun to amble around for an early evening drink and get a silly woolen hat for morning outings. Awasi Atacama stands alongside the highly rated Explora and Tierra hotels, for luxury with adventure, although its approach is even more personalized. Very impressive. Anything we missed? Latin Americans love kids—the private guide will adapt trips to fit family needs. Oh, and there’s a neat little pool, if you want a short swim after wallowing in the desert thermal pools. And anything you’d change? The hotel has a three-day policy. Let everyone have one night here. It’s a recharging spot for long-distance travelers. So it worth it—and why? This is one of the most extreme, captivating, surreal landscapes on earth, and you’d be crazy to rough it while on your stay. Get the best window on the world for seriously trippy sky views—no light pollution out here." - Chris Moss
