"Whether you enter directly from Piazza della República or go through the newly-renovated Anantara Palazzo Naiadi, there’s a distinct air of exclusivity here. Perhaps it’s the fact that there’s only space for 28 covers, or maybe it’s the low lighting and hushed tones. Some diners are hotel guests, but there’s a bigger than expected mix of locals who got their name on the reservation list early, keen to sample Executive Chef Heros De Agostinis’s much-anticipated creations. Cooking delves deep into his family history, with a mix of Abruzzo and Eritrean cuisine that we rarely see in menus in Italy. Start with the green curry risotto with scampi and lime. Then move on to the black cod saltimbocca with vin jaune sauce, or the grilled lamb cutlets served with artichokes and a mint and yoghurt sauce. Some dishes are downright exceptional, like the turbot, parsley roots, and black truffle. Don’t leave without trying the raspberry and rhubarb souffle." - Maresa Manara