"What's the vibe?Most of Barcelona’s alleyway action happens in the Old Town, where passageways the width of a couple holding hands contain secret boutiques. But one of our favorite streets-with-a-treat can be found off Eixample’s Passeig de Gràcia. At the end, there’s the pink-walled El Nacional, a car park–turned–restaurant complex with stunning Art Deco interiors, an oyster bar, and a tapas joint where waiters sing the names of dishes and you order via a me-me-me hand wave. As of 2019, it also has a new neighbor: Hotel Praktik Èssens. The building is a respectful renovation of architect Domènec Bale’s 19th-century Neo-Arab design. Look for the simple black sign set between two olive trees. Give us the backstory on this place.Praktik Èssens is the fifth property from Praktik, a Barcelona boutique hotel brand. Each one boasts a different value proposition: Praktik Vinoteca offers wine tastings, for example, while Praktik Bakery has an in-house bread shop. Èssens is the first hotel-cum-perfumery. If you fail to spot its subtle sign, simply smell your way to check-in. What room category should we book?Get the Premium with Terrace. The other rooms may be great, but that terrace is a feat of beauty: 270 square feet of decking with a waterfall shower, a double day bed, and—squeal!—a teal-tiled outdoor bathtub. How's the Wi-Fi?There’s free wi-fi throughout. What's the dining and drinking scene like?What to do when you have no restaurant? Collaborate with the buzzy brunch spot up the street. Reception offers three packages, from simple croissants to fully cooked feasts. How did you find the service?There's always a risk that stunty details—say, that perfume element—could feel superfluous or forced. Here, though, as a means to personalize your stay, it lends a nice, elegant touch. On arrival, pick your favorite of three perfumes, and watch as all of your toiletries (hand soap, body lotion, shampoo, and conditioner) materialize in that scent. Who stays here?People smug about having scored one of the best—if not the best—hotel location in the city. And everyone smells nice, too. How's the neighborhood?A quiet alley, in the city center, within arm's reach of a gazillion major attractions and restaurants. You get the scene, but you can also get a perfect night's sleep. Win-win. Is there anything you'd change?The coffee area and terrace on the first floor is crying out for an honesty bar with booze. What's the bottom line?This hotel enjoys the ultimate location and has features that are easy on the eyes—and the nose." - Gemma Askham
