"One thing food-obsessed Madrileños know is that the city's culinary polestar has shifted north to the neighborhood of Chamberí. That's thanks, in large part, to Mercado de Vallehermoso, whose once-defunct stalls are now occupied by young, head-turning chefs who aren't afraid to experiment. Follow your nose, and you might end up at Graciana, an Argentinian empanada stand, or Di Buono, an Italian cubby-hole that serves pinsa, an ancient Roman flatbread with a feather-light crust. But you'll need a reservation to experience the market's gastronomic crown jewel, Tripea, the Chifa (Peruvian–Asian fusion) tasting-menu-only restaurant with a Michelin Bib Gourmand designation." - Benjamin Kemper