Wood & Grain — Restaurant Review | Condé Nast Traveler

"What were your first impressions when you arrived?   Tucked away in corner of an unremarkable shopping center anchored by a Bi-Lo in Mount Pleasant, it might seem that Wood & Grain is just the kind of place that you go when you want to be some place warm and inviting when the day has been anything but. Opening the glass door to the restaurant's dark interior, illuminated by an open hearth kitchen in the back of the room and scented with all things savory and satisfying, promises that this is much more than your default neighborhood spot. What’s the crowd like?   The crowd has the relaxed air of locals who visit on the regular. They're not trying to impress with their ordering, but hanging out with the family or friends—or posted up at the bar enjoying a drink while waiting on a to-go order. The dress is casual and the servers know a lot of people on a first name basis. What should we be drinking?   Nothing on the wine or cocktail list will knock your socks off with its ingenuity, but that's part of the charm of a classic red, or the well-made Bees Knees or Manhattan. What you're offered are all solid choices, so missteps are at a minimum. Main event: the food. Give us the lowdown—especially what not to miss.   Although the crust doesn't come out of the oven with the leopard spots so beloved in the Neopolitan style of pizza, the pizza is still nevertheless the thing here—chewy and cheesy and wood-fired, topped with seasonal, local ingredients including mushrooms, all kinds of alliums (garlic, leeks) and a plethora of cured meats, from duck to ham to fennel sausage. Chef Patrick Owens has been doing his own thing in Mount Pleasant for years—head down, spreading red sauce on a pie or wiping plates at expo at one of his other restaurants on the daily; not so much in the spotlight as spotlighting the local bounty, which is the Charleston ethos. The flavor combinations, the balance, and the execution of his dishes are consistently excellent, be them atop a disc of dough, baked into the oysters, or on a salad. It's not necessarily avant garde poetry, but it is solid prose that you can proudly recommend to others and enjoy immensely, no matter your knowledge of pizza canon. And how did the front-of-house folks treat you?   The staff are used to regulars, and those folks easily become regulars because they are welcomed quickly, with a drink order and a smile. They are observant and watch what pleases people every night, so they are quick with recommendations, and seem to have a pride in the restaurant and how well it serves its guests. What’s the real-real on why we’re coming here?   This is a stop for a drink after work, a place to bring your friends, have a date night, or grab a solo bite at the bar. If your living room had better lighting and a wood-fired oven run by a chef, then this would be it." - Stephanie Burt