"Simply seasoned with a shatteringly crisp exterior, the meat was succulent and unmistakably chickeny in that hand-raised way. A thigh, breast, and drumstick later, you might not think I had room for Apple Brown Betty, prepared to Lewis’s exacting specs by Lenny Schafer, owner of ClearWater Fire-Grill & Catering in Locust Grove—but I did. The oven-browned assemblage of tart green apples and buttered, sugared bread cubes scented with nutmeg and lemon zest oozed pure, autumnal decadence."