

40

"Ivan Orkin may be the most famous ramen chef in America thanks to his Long Island–to–Tokyo story and Chef’s Table fame, but he’s also serving the city’s most interesting shio: rye-flecked noodles, a sofrito base, and a beautifully roasted tomato topping, with a pronounced dried-fish punch that outshines other shops’ shio. The menu spans styles—mazemen, tsukemen, and an emulsified chicken paitan—and the shellfish-spiked chicken shoyu was recently updated to include wontons." - Sho Spaeth