Capelongue, Bonnieux, a Beaumier Hotel

Capelongue

"Why book? Because you want to lounge on a sunbed by a stone pool edged with lavender, sipping icy freshly-squeezed lemonade to the tune of whirring cicadas. And because, should you tire of lazy afternoons, Bonnieux is a short drive from a half-dozen beguiling hilltop medieval villages in the Lubéron Valley. Set the scene At first glance, the five-acre landscaped hilly property of Capelongue resembles a resurrected ancient farm with all the agricultural vestiges: a sheepfold, a dovecote, gurgling fountains, surrounded by rows of stately cypresses. Guess again: this impeccable Neo-Provencal 37-room hamlet was actually built from scratch only a decade ago, using prettily polished weathered old stones. And in spite of the glittery allure of their one-Michelin-star restaurant, La Bastide, there’s nothing chichi with unfussy clean lines, whitewashed walls, and glazed earthenware jugs. You’ll also be spared the ceremonious perorations of a uniformed concierge. Au contraire—the young friendly staff at the entrance reception cottage are clad in terra-cotta linen shirts to match the ubiquitous brick-colored décor. High points: the wall-to-ceiling library, chockablock with poetry, highbrow lit, and oversize glossy art books; the romantic in-the-garden breakfast nooks overlooking the blue-gray foothills; an all-day café and poolside snack bar. The backstory Formerly known as the “Domaine de Capelongue”, it was both a hotel and celebrated gastronomic haunt, masterminded by the owner, veteran Michelin two-star chef, Édouard Loubet—a high-profile entrepreneur with numerous establishments in Provence and Courchevel, who built this postcard-perfect country manor on an old soccer stadium. The Beaumier hotel group (Les Roches Rouges, Le Moulin de Lourmarin) acquired the property in September 2020 and embarked on a two-year restructuration and renovation, teaming up with innovative French architects Jaune to reimagine the rural chic interiors. The rooms The airy 57 bedrooms and 19 suites come in all shapes and sizes, a soothing medley of pale earth tones, rattan chairs, crafted wood tables, ceramic jugs, gleaming terra-cotta-tiled bathrooms (and olive green discreetly Provencal-patterned cushions to liven things up), with sweeping views of the verdant Petit Lubéron countryside. Unsurprisingly, the mini-bar reflects the spirit of the place, stocked with fruity half-bottles of Château les Eydins rosé from a neighboring vintner in Bonnieux. Best bet: the circular tower pigeonnier suite, a romantic dovecote-style spacious duplex, crowned with a cozy top-floor reading room. Food and drink Set above a grassy garden of flowering white oleander, Capelongue’s inviting rustic stone bistro La Bergerie excels in the kind of haute comfort food from the Mediterranean that is both original and reliably tasty. From the wood-fired oven, we tried starters like their Provencal-style pissaladière—a sautéed onion and anchovy tart served atop a thick-crust pizza—followed by a hunk of grilled pork with creamy mashed potatoes or tuna and courgettes, all washed down with a glass of Château la Verrerie rosé from the Lubéron. You’ll want to linger for the late summertime sunset, perfectly timed for dessert: chocolate ganache crumble with salted butter caramel and verbena-spiked strawberry salad with whipped cream. With the newly-awarded Michelin star, Capelongue’s second gastronomic restaurant, La Bastide, is headed by chef Nöel Bérard (formerly Edouard Loubet’s sous-chef). The concept: two refined prix-fixe menus to share amongst friends; whether it’s beef, artichokes, trout, chicken, rice, truffles, almonds, or apricots, the succulent ingredients are all from a small local radius or plucked from the chef’s garden. Train your kids early—the children’s gourmet menu includes dishes like tomato and strawberry salad, farm-range chicken, and a gooey chocolate tart. The neighborhood Consider yourself in Deep Provence—sunflowers, lavender fields, vineyards—and plenty to do and see. Grab an electric bike and head to the Bonnieux, a scant kilometer away, for a mooch around the old village and great panoramic views. From there, it’s a 20-minute drive to the postcard-perfect village, Ménerbes (much-touted in the Peter Mayle famed A Year in Provence from days of yore), once the home of artists Nicolas de Stael and Dora Maar (her former digs, now an artists’ residence, is open for guided visits). The ruined medieval castle in nearby Lacoste that once belonged to the infamous Marquis de Sade—then bought and rescued by Pierre Cardin in 2001—is now a thriving summertime cultural destination. Over in Lourmarin, the fairytale-restored Renaissance château and the winding backstreets, lined with cutesy Provencal boutiques, antique stores, galleries, and cafés, is an ideal stopover for families and inveterate shoppers who can’t get enough soap, olive oil, and fig jam to stuff in their suitcase. The service No need to expect a swift and polished staff, fawning waiters, or overly-glib sommeliers in a hip retreat like Capelongue where your late afternoon holistic massage has chilled you to the point of beatitude. Call it an efficient choreography of service with attentive touches, like our rasta-haired poolside dog-friendly waiter, who regularly refilled the silver bowl of our friends’ thirsty retriever as if he were serving fine wine. Who comes here? A joyous mix of locals and globe-trotting sophisticates. At the informal Bergerie garden restaurant, we saw family clans at long wooden tables celebrating a special occasion; at La Bastide, you’re likely to spy older European couples from the monied set with neighboring second homes, decked out in their summer finery. Come mid-morning, hotel guests make a beeline for the two pretty pools (essentially the hub of activity) to swim off the mega-basket of buttery croissants. Anticipate a smorgasbord of ages and nationalities: smooching American honeymooners, a whippet-thin German couple bronzing with diligence; energetic Italian lap swimmers, and a discreet fifty-something British couple flipping through thrillers. The leaves rustle, the bees buzz, and Saint Tropez seems light years away; in other words, no bare breasts, no piped-in house music, no splashing, no plastic flamingo floats. However, you will find yoga classes and a well-equipped gym. For families? Yes and no. Though Capelongue has numerous junior and duplex suites equipped with adjoining rooms and/or beds for couples with children, restless tots or bored teens may not connect with the lulling calm factor. On the other hand, they won’t go hungry—both restaurants feature children’s menus, plus the all-day Capelongue Café serves kid-friendly snacks like pizza, fries, and ice cream at any hour. Eco effort Everything from the sweet-smelling bergamot bath toiletries in recyclable big brown bottles to the selection of beverages—locally-brewed beer (spiked with lavender honey and saffron or Menton lemons), organic wines and champagne—are part of Capelongue’s policy to privilege locally-sourced products, whether it’s decorative clay pitcher or what’s on the menu. Even the earth-worshipping signature spa massage—a fragrant mix of Kalmar products and pure local oils—leaves you smelling like the chef’s herb garden. Accessibility for those with mobility impairments Not always ideal with the sloping terrain; room 200, on the ground floor of the Bastide and room 500, across the street, at La Bergerie are the only two that are easily accessible. Is it worth it? If your wish list includes “re-energizing”, “unpretentious”, “fabulous cuisine”, “eco-friendly” and “spa”, Capelongue is worth every centime. Nightlife may be limited to star gazing in an open country sky or savoring a Corsican tangerine eau de vie on your terrace, but let’s face it—that’s precisely why you’ve come. This is probably not the place for antique aficionados who’d prefer a plush velveteen armchair to an abundance of clean blond wood, rattan chairs, and nearly-identical contemporary furnishings. But in a nutshell, the Beaumier Group’s streamlined luxe reinvention of Provence is relaxed and more affordable than some of the older swankier five-star hotels in the region." - Lanie Goodman