Raya Heritage

"There are no ornate rooftops at this hotel along the Ping river. It’s unlikely that sai oua sausage or khao soi soup, two beloved staples of local cooking, will appear on the menu. Time-worn Buddha statues? Virtually none. Yet no other hangout feels more rooted in place than Raya Heritage, where the typical temple-inspired teak-and-gold look has been eschewed for a straight-lined approach to let crafts take center stage. Terracotta brickwork. Woven reed baskets. Hand-loomed textiles. Jolts of indigo. It’s a celebration of the ancient culture of Lanna, the cross-border kingdom of which Chiang Mai was the capital some 700 years ago. Not Disney-fied but fresh and bright, it’s the sort of place where only your conscience holds you back from stuffing your suitcase with the hand-dyed throws or lacquered bamboo catchalls (with that in mind, Raya Heritage opened its Him Gong shop in 2019). But it’s not just the interiors that draw on the region’s cultural patchwork. At the restaurant, linen-clad waiters serve noodle salads from Burma, Chinese kung pao chicken, and Shan-style river prawns. The spa focuses on bone-cracking Burmese massages and a steam room uses a rare blend by a master herbalist from a nearby village. Excursions to meet artisans can be arranged, although the 33 rooms—some with private pools—are inviting enough to loll around in all day. This address is exemplary in a country that’s slowly starting to re-appreciate the richness of its crafts, offering a blueprint for Thai design without the tropes. Doubles from about $307; rayaheritage.com" - Chris Schalkx