Le Moulin, Lourmarin, a Beaumier Hotel

Le Moulin

"Why book? For Francophiles who want a taste of that charming Provençal life—without the hassle of managing a farm or doing their own housekeeping—this stonewalled former oil mill turned boutique hotel in the village of Lourmarin is guaranteed to project Belle from Beauty and the Beast vibes, with a side of hipsterdom to keep the fairytale tropes at bay. Set the scene After winding your way through the one-lane roads of the Luberon, the mostly-flat town of Lourmarin is a welcome midway point between Avignon and Aix. Set on the edge of this trés charmant pedestrian village, with ivy-covered stone walls and typical sky-blue shutters, it’s an ideal jumping-off point for those exploring both the north and the south. There’s even free car parking just across from the hotel, making it an easy stroll with luggage—not to mention all the linens you’ll undoubtedly pick up at the market. Speaking of, the town’s weekly marché opens bright and early on Fridays, which means cars need to be moved the evening before. Also, if you’ve got a castle-facing room, be prepared to hear the cling-clang of tent rods being fashioned before you’ve had your morning espresso. Despite being the newcomer in town last summer, come apéro time, the sun-soaked terrace on rue de Temple was packed with a mix of visitors in wide-brimmed hats trying to blend in, and locals in sunnies smoking cigarettes happy to stand out. The backstory Le Moulin, a former oil mill dating back to the 18th century, was purchased by the Beaumier group, whose other French properties are nestled in the snowy Alps and along the craggy gruffs of the glistening Cote d’Azur. Known for restoring existing structures and giving them a jolt of high design with minimalist touches and a common color palette of neutrals, this one maintains its original essence by highlighting unique particularities like sloped ceilings, spiral staircases, and ancient presses left in what is now the hotel restaurant. As a result, there are a few funky repercussions. For example, getting to one’s room may require a map and some muscle. After taking the elevator up one level, there’s a set of stairs, and potentially another staircase through a winding tower and a few seemingly superfluous corridors. But, hey, you take the old with the new! (And they’ll help you with your bags, of course.) In all, it’s a fun blend of contemporary chic and, “Wow, this place is legit old.” The rooms The 25 rooms are scattered across a few floors, and range in size from about 200 square suare feet to 540 square feet for a suite with a living area. Some even come with two sinks—one outside the (unventilated) shower room and one inside. Given we were two women with lots of beauty products, this was a welcome addition. Speaking of, toiletries are from favored French candle brand, Diptyque. Rooms either face the small street leading in and out of the village or the chateau (and parking/market) across the way, but you’re not necessarily staying here for the views—and since this used to be an actual mill, many of the windows themselves are small and offer little to no natural light, depending on the time of day. Still, even when indoors, there’s a feeling of warmth and radiance, perhaps as a result of the white walls and various brightly-colored accent items such as mustard yellow lamps, natural rattan desk chairs, and ochre ceramic vases filled with both fresh and dried flowers. Some guests may not love the feel of the knotted rope carpet on their bare feet, but rooms come with slippers for those with sensitive skin. Food and drink Don’t skip breakfast or the rosemary fougasse at dinner! Let’s start with the morning meal, which is served outdoors (weather permitting) under a typically Provençal rattan overhang. There’s no buffet, but rather table service with à la carte items including a variety of egg options, fruit (like seasonal cantaloupe—a regional staple—peeled and served like a rose with figs and mint), and country bread tartines topped with the likes of local sheep’s milk cheese and pickled veggies. Service at dinner, on the same patio, was a bit standoffish and slow. Plus, they were out of a handful of items on the menu when we arrived for an (admittedly late) dinner, but chef Julien Ferry is working with seasonal, regional delicacies so that’s par for the course, I guess. The perfectly plump focaccia made up for it—as did the selection of natural wines. The vibe over at the bar was friendlier, with the bartender offering a “Bonjour!” every time we passed by. (It’s located by the hotel entrance, in between the restaurant and the rooms.) After dinner one night, we sat down and let him school us on the local ritual of drinking Pastis, a licorice-flavored liquor, which we learned is usually imbibed before the meal as an aperitif. The neighborhood/area The village itself is a “where does this alley lead?” kind of place that can be walked in an hour or less, depending how seriously you take your flâneur lifestyle. There’s a real sense of community, so expect to learn about the likes of symphony concerts at the local castle while speaking with specialty shopkeepers such as Philippe Franc of La Maison Franc, who makes wands out of lavender flowers and stems. While technically on the edge of the small town, Le Moulin is primed to be the hub for all things hip and happening, whether you’re there for the day or staying the whole summer. The service The welcoming vibe is evidenced by its many entrances. It’s a friendly, come-and-go (local or visitor) type of property where, with the exception of some slightly sleepy waiter service at dinner, the staff are helpful, friendly, and happy to take care of any hiccups—especially when there’s no hot water in your room. (It was fixed fairly quickly, several apologies were offered, and it didn’t happen again.) Everyone here works to lend a hand, be it with the luggage up those steps, giving directions to the Sunday market in L’Isle sur la Sorgue, or unlocking one of the free bikes for a ride around the village. For families With so many room types—a few with sofa beds and the option for singles—this is a great place for families who want to share space. That said, I didn’t see any board games or Jenga in the lobby lounge. Rather, expect to find coffee table tomes featuring the artwork of Manet and books by philosopher Albert Camus, not to mention breakable-looking pottery that even I wanted to pick up and admire. Accessibility There are stairs at both entrances to the hotel, and then others even once you take the elevator up to your floor, so perhaps not ideal for those with physical disabilities. Anything left to mention? The hotel offers “extras” in the form of experiences like pilates on Mondays, outdoor cinema on Tuesdays and Sundays (located on the lawn of the group’s other local property, the more sprawling farmhouse Le Galinier), or stargazing, olive oil tasting, and truffle hunting by request. They also have a lovely grocer with a selection of locally-made artisanal food items and daily seasonal sandwiches to take away, either as gifts or for the train or car ride back. Finally, in 100 words or less, what makes this hotel worthy of Hot List? For those who can’t decide between Aix or Avignon, but want a taste of small-town, Provençal life (and don’t necessarily need a pool), this well-located, old-world-meets-new village property offers an ideal blend of quintessential countryside charm with trendsetting, tasteful design practically begging for all the likes on the ‘Gram." - Sara Lieberman