"As the last lights of Inverness, Scotland, disappeared into the gloom of night, I was pouring my second glass of Chianti on board the newly refurbished Caledonian Sleeper train. The wine was one of the essentials I'd packed—along with a toothbrush and a good book—to help me relax in my cabin, which also had been recently revamped. The experience was more akin to a moving hotel than a train, with double beds, room service, and en suite showers."