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"A striking, two-toned counter–mint-green on the inside, pale grey on the outside–anchors the interior of Tinc Gana, the elevated sibling of contemporary Spanish gastrobar Gracia. Owner-chef Jerome Quilbeuf oversees operations in the open kitchen, stopping to joke with the guests as he tops up their glasses of wine. There’s a small terrace with jaunty blue-and-white wicker chairs for aperitifs outside, and a subterranean watering hole outfitted with a fireplace for after-dinner drinks in Quilbeuf’s Abajo bar next door. This place is popular with hospitality-industry types and foodies in the know–it’s not uncommon to spot local restauranteurs having a meal on their days off, or celebrity chefs visiting Tokyo. The menu varies with the seasons but will likely start with pan con tomate, draped with 36-month-aged Joselito jamon. Quilbeuf, who spent years as the head chef at Spain’s three-Michelin-starred Sant Pau and its two-starred Tokyo outpost, shows his creativity in dishes such as charcoal-grilled tuna with pine-nut sauce, olives, and tomato confit and saffron-scented paella shaped into onigiri rice balls and served with a sauce of shrimp bisque." - Melinda Joe