Tanah Gajah, a Resort by Hadiprana

"Take us there. What's the place like? What stands out as you arrive, either on the hotel grounds or in the surrounding area on approach?It’s hard to believe the sprawling resort is only a 10-minute drive from increasingly tourist-clogged Ubud—once you’re there, it’s as though you’re in private a country estate miles from civilization. The hotel sits near the 9th-century Goa Gajah, or Elephant Cave; as a tribute to this sacred temple, elephant statues line the winding driveway to the open reception area. Lovely. So what's the story behind the Chedi Club?Once the family home of Hendra Hadiprana, a serious art collector and one of Indonesia’s preeminent architects, The resort boasts clear influences from its past life, starting with elaborate sculptures in the lobby. A big pond and a long, green-tiled pool (neatly flanked by a phalanx of sun loungers and parasols) nod to Balinese water palaces. What are the rooms like? Any standout accommodations?There are seven suites and 13 villas. The stand-alone villas aren't enormous, but they're thoughtfully appointed with everything you could need, including minibars where much is free. The Pool Villas have their own plunge pools, some of which open out onto the paddy fields. They're as suited to honeymoons as they are family escapes, and everyone is allocated a dedicated butler. Is the restaurant on site worth a stop, or should we look elsewhere for a pick-me-up?The thatched open-air dining pavilion, which overlooks the paddy fields where the menu's rice is harvested, works for low-key lunches and special-occasion dinners alike. The resort's interpretation of Indonesian Rijsttafel, nine rice dishes with spicy sambals, is particularly great. We also loved lounging on triangular cushions and picnicking at the edge of the property's dazzling green-grass field. How's the service?Staff is about as kind, genuine, and helpful as it gets. Deasy Swandarini is a most charming GM—warm hospitality sets the tone. And how would you describe the people who stay here?Well-to-do guests who don't like to show off. Any other amenities on site we should take note of?In addition to the onsite restaurant and bar, there's also private dining and room service. Wellness facilities include a gym, a spa, and tennis courts. There isn't a kids club per se, but you can hire babysitters. And on Tuesday and Friday evenings, the hotel hosts a Royal Balinese Dinner, where local villagers perform Kecak, a Balinese dance. Bottom line: Why would you pick this resort? What's it best for?Come to savor a private villa and beautiful, sprawling gardens—without having to interact with many other guests." - Juliet Kinsman