Schloss Elmau

"Why book? The 360-degree views surrounding the majestic microcosm of Schloss Elmau are reason enough to book. A stay here is equal parts refined and lively, restful and re-energizing, with a cornucopia of pursuits—wild swimming, e-mountain bike tours, tennis, archery, paddle boarding, canyoning and a recently-added 270m flying fox—available for the whole crew. Set the scene Surrounded by lofty peaks and crystal-clear lakes, this majestic spa and cultural retreat high in the Bavarian Alps is the stuff of legend. Sixty-five miles south of Munich, it is a sprawling sanctuary consisting of two hotels, eight restaurants, seven spas (including separate choices for adults and families), two slick gyms, a yoga pavilion, a bookstore, a kids' club, a 300-seat concert hall and idyllic valleys aplenty. This remote haven has a heavyweight political history and stratospheric levels of comfort. The G7 summit has been hosted here twice—in 2015 and 2022—however, when Barack, Boris and Biden aren’t in residence, exhausted corporate escapees, multi-generational family constellations, couples and solo health hunters flock to wind down and soak up the pristine air. The backstory Philosopher, theologian and author Dr Johannes Muller opened Schloss Elmau in 1916 as a ‘space for personal freedom and communal life’. Since then, philosophers, celebrities, musicians, politicians, and those just wanting to experience the gentle thrill of this place for a few days have ventured to the Bavarian bolthole for a restorative retreat. Today, Muller’s grandson, Dietmar Muller-Elmau, an entrepreneur with a background in creating market-leading hotel software, is at the helm and culture and rejuvenation are high on the agenda. A major fire in 2005 meant that most of the original Hideaway building had to be rebuilt, and in 2015, a second hotel—The Retreat—was added just in time to host the G7 summit (identical suites with equally majestic views of the Wetterstein Mountain made equitable room allocation easier). This was all masterminded and lovingly brought to life by Dietmar, who remains passionately committed to his team, vision and guests, adjusting lights and plumping elephant-embossed cushions as he moves through the property daily. The rooms The 162 rooms and suites are split across two adjacent buildings—the original but refurbed Hideaway and The Retreat, which has a more modern aesthetic. The 47 rooms in The Retreat are huge, with floor-to-ceiling windows and furnishings from India, Indonesia, Iran, and China brought together by a soft neutral palette that puts unimaginably beautiful views centre stage. The enormous beds are exceptionally comfortable, and the rooms have an understated luxury. Hardwood floors are softened with vibrant rugs, and plump sofas next to crackling fires in the Library Lounge are wonderfully inviting. Each guest, including children, receives a boldly colored bathrobe instead of the more traditional fluffy white variety—a sartorial nod to Dietmar’s desire to provide a unique experience. Expect to see orange, purple, pink and blue-robe-clad figures wafting between buildings and the outdoor sauna. Food and drink Start the evening with a cocktail on the terrace or a glass of wine by a crackling fire and ponder which of the 10 tantalising restaurants to go to. Fine dining at French-Japanese Michelin-starred Luce D’Oro is popular with couples, while the buffet at La Salle works well for families. A cosy evening tucking into cheese fondue at Elmauer Alm is a must. Even the most Instagram-adverse won't be able to resist a photograph of the wood-panelled cabin, complete with red-and-white chequered tablecloths. It’s a 45-minute uphill walk from Schloss Elmau or a five-minute shuttle, which the hotel will arrange. The spa Imke Konig, the wonderfully approachable Medical Spa Director, has been practising t’ai chi and Qi Gong for nearly 40 years. Her approach is gentle but effective, combining Schloss Elmau’s extensive spa offerings with traditional Chinese medicine. The overarching aim here is to decelerate and rebalance. An excellent place to start is the vast hammam, where skin is scrubbed to perfection and needy knots melt away, followed by a swim in the warm outdoor infinity pool, a scenic e-bike ride or a hike in the hills. A dip in the icy stream next to the sauna in the nature spa is powerful stuff. This is a place for invigorating the mind, body and soul for guests of all ages. The area A thousand metres above sea level and a half-hour drive from Innsbruck, Schloss Elmau has beauty and convenience aplenty. Just over half an hour’s drive away, at the foot of the Zugspitze mountains, is the Eibsee, a glistening lake with pristine water and eight islands within. There’s a hiking trail of approximately eight kilometres, which takes around two hours with children and multiple stops for photographs. The service Warm and welcoming, Schloss Elmau is a place where guests of all ages feel comfortable. Despite the grandeur of the setting and the hotel's elegance, there’s nothing stuffy here. Every morning, my daughters ordered waffles for breakfast at Tutto Mondo, and there was no visible judgment at the obscene amounts of Nutella they lathered on. For families A dazzling array of activities to get everyone moving. There are two slick gyms, tennis, archery, horse-riding, swimming in the lakes, cross-country skiing (in winter), and yoga for all capabilities. But the real star of the show has to be the outdoor hiking. Even the littlest of legs will happily wander for miles through the majestic mountains with a private guide from Schloss Elmau on hand to keep everyone on track. Finish the day with fondue and stargazing at the mountain restaurant Elmauer Alm. Eco effort A room with a view is enduringly special. Schloss Elmau is in a conservation area with rare wildflowers and hummock meadows formed around 60 million years ago. These views are not just special; they are vital for biodiversity. Thankfully, the team there has long been committed to preserving the local environment and economy. Since 2007, the property has generated 80 per cent of its heating using wood chips made from local wood waste. They partner with local brands Vaude for staff uniforms, Urb’n Nature for bathroom amenities and nearby organic farms for sustainable produce. Fresh, mineral-rich water comes from the property’s own mountain spring and employees are paid above the average hospitality salary, with career development and vocational training built into the offering. Schloss Elmau plans to be completely eco-friendly and sustainable by the end of 2024. Accessibility The reservation department can advise which rooms are wheelchair accessible and is very happy to provide whatever assistance is needed." - Adam H. Graham