Tenderoni's — Restaurant Review | Condé Nast Traveler
"What were your first impressions when you arrived? You might not think to describe a restaurant as hilarious unless you've dropped into the flagship Tenderoni's location in Fenway. Is it the disco elephant host stand, the glowing "cheesy" sign on the ceiling, the glittery roller skates on shelves by the bar, or the retro painted lines on the floor? Yes, all of that. Stepping foot into the 1970s and 1980s disco roller-rink inspired place sets the stage for a meal that's way more party than pretense. What’s the crowd like? The crowd is a fun mix of Fenway locals and foodie-leaning folks lured by the craft cuisine spin on Italian-American-ish bites. Plus, given the stone's-throw location from Fenway, the neighborhood bustles during the baseball season. Expect a pleasantly buzzing vibe that favors a hangout rather than an eat-it-and-beat-it meal. What should we be drinking? The drink program pleases both cocktail hounds and wine-lovers alike. Do try the 1363 cocktail—a nod to the spot's address—which mixes vodka, elderflower, and lime, with passionfruit to temper the herby bite of Aperol. Variations on classics are both whipped up on the fly and prepared beforehand as part of the bottled and canned offerings. The extensive wine list is a choose your own adventure of approachable to "I can't believe I'm pairing this with pizza" splurges. Sip the infinitely crushable and fruity lambrusco by the glass or—more likely—the bottle. It's dubbed "Tenderoni's official pizza wine" for a reason. A solid list of reds by the bottle pair well with pizzas, with plenty of whites, Champagnes (offered by the half-bottle, too) and a handful of Rieslings rounding things out. Feeling especially baller? Gander a 1985 cabernet sauvignon by Caymus Vineyards, which will set you back $756. Main event: the food. Give us the lowdown—especially what not to miss. Picture your hometown pizza joint and crank the volume way up. The menu knows when to pay homage (the "old man clams" with grilled bread for dipping that fennel-forward sauce feels like a North End staple) and when to re-imagine, like the chicken parm nuggets. While the house-made pastas are worth a return trip—notably the fusilli alla vodka which sees Calabrian chili cutting through the creamy tomato sauce—the pizzas here are the main event. Admittedly, you can find pizza on the cheap anywhere in town, but where else can you find pies with crunchy crusts that feel like if Pizza Hut went to culinary school in Italy? Smaller and two-and-a-half foot pies include the deceptively simple (the perfectly executed namesake Tenderoni pie with crisp-edged peperoni cups) and the wild, like the ono grinds with roasted pineapple, barbecue pork belly, and jalapeno "goo." And how did the front-of-house folks treat you? The service staff are happy to chat about recommendations and offer advice. If you find yourself sitting at the bar unsure of what drink to order, don't be surprised if the bartender talks to you about your tastes and whips up a concoction on the fly. What’s the real-real on why we’re coming here? The celebratory vibe (even during the weeknights) lends itself towards bringing friends to share slices. Of note, too, are the once-monthly ticketed drag brunches that transform the restaurant into a stage for high-energy performances and family-style meals." - Nathan Tavares
