"Set the scene.At the tip of a lush peninsula, this opulent seaside palace is a one-of-a-kind Riviera vestige of tranquil days gone by, when Europe’s aristos wintered in the dazzling sunshine. Even King Leopold II of Belgium, a regular to the Cap Ferrat in the 19th century, would still be impressed by the 14-acre blooming gardens and flowering succulents, designed by French landscape architect Jean Mus. What’s the story?The hotel’s storied past (regulars once included Aristotle Onassis, Charlie Chaplin, Marc Chagall, Jean Cocteau, Robin Williams, and Paul McCartney) means the livre d’or guest book is a veritable museum piece, with doodles by Picasso and Jean Marais. Somerset Maugham, who at one point, lived down the street, often strolled in for a drink at the bar. But there’s nothing staid about the atmosphere; among the endless series of renovations, the massive refurb by Pierre-Yves Rochon in 2009 brought the décor into the 21st century with pristine white rooms and botanical-themed spa. Managed by Four Seasons since 2015, the impeccable service is another draw. What can we expect from our room?Most of the 74 rooms and suites are similar in décor, with parquet floors, classic lines from the Riviera’s '40s and '50s heyday, done in pale, earthy tones and a splash of jade and turquoise. It’s all jazzed up with reproductions of modern artwork from local residents such as Matisse and Chagall. The upper suite 306 is the most sought-after for its dreamy terrace with a sweeping vista of the Mediterranean. How about the food and drink?Michelin-starred chef Yoric Tièche, who arrived in 2017 and heads the hotel’s three restaurants (the poolside Club Dauphin, the patio restaurant La Veranda, and the intimate gastronomic Le Cap) is a wizard at injecting modernity into his native traditional Provençal dishes. The lunchtime two- or three- course prix fixe menu ($75 to $86) includes starters such as a niçois trouchia—a Swiss chard tart with summer truffles—followed by Scorpion fish swimming in a spicy sea of baby veggies and bouillabaisse. Finish with award-winner pastry chef Florent Margaillan’s original spin on tarte Tropezienne, a flaky round pastry oozing with orange blossom-infused pastry cream and pistachios. Breakfast isn't included, but the gargantuan spread of homemade cakes, crepes, smoked salmon, and hot dishes will keep you going until late afternoon, at the least. Anything to say about the service?Smooth and attentive to your heart’s most whimsical desires, no matter the hour. The concierge organizes everything from a ride down the coast in a classic vintage car, to boat excursions to the Italian Riviera or the Lérins Islands near Cannes. What sort of person comes here?European sophisticates en famille, film, rock and sports stars incognito, political bigwigs, and foodies. What’s the neighborhood scene like?Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat is just a 10-minute drive from Beaulieu-sur-mer, where there's a smattering of high-end shops, some lovely cafés in the market square, and a few notable portside restaurants. A spin to Monaco is de rigueur for the young and restless. Tell us about the spa experience.Among a long list of body and facial treatments by eco-luxe Australian company Sodashi, the French holistic brand Biologique Recherche, the star 90-minute signature treatment by Swiss company Dr. Burgener, “The Gardens of the Cap”—an anti-aging plumping facial made with extracts of plants from the hotel garden, a fragrant mix of crimson roses, lemons, honey, and lavender that leaves you feeling aglow. Anything you'd change?Not a thing. Anything we missed?Ocean access is difficult on the jagged rocks, but head to the nearby private pebbly beach, Paloma, a turquoise cove with a superb waterside restaurant featuring the grilled local catch of the day. A final note: is it worth it?To daydream with impunity is a luxury, and this is one place to do it. The spirit of the Riviera lives on in all its nostalgic glory combined with a savvy team, mouth-watering cuisine, and spellbinding views." - Lanie Goodman
