"After visiting Giác Lâm Temple, where traditionally costumed worshippers are rehearsing for the Buddha's upcoming birthday celebration, we hit the 140-year-old Bình Tây market in Cholon. Half a million ethnic Chinese live in Ho Chi Minh City, Đú'c tells me, many with roots dating to the 1600s. They buy everything here: salted turnips, century eggs, dried kumquat, rolls of cinnamon bark as thick as Bible scrolls, even shark fins."