"Hugo Ortega's much-buzzed-about Xochi in downtown Houston is filled with intricate art that subtly nods to Oaxaca. It's a transportive environment, so much so that you'll soon forget that you're dining inside a busy downtown hotel (the Marriott Marquis). Ortega runs a super-soulful, modern, and sophisticated Oaxacan spot where the house-made moles and masas are evident in every dish, from the memela to the hongos. Try something you've never ordered before; suckling pig, goat, black-footed chicken, or, if you're feeling especially bold, insects." - Charu Suri, Diana Oates