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"In gentrifying Didube–Chugureti, a warren of cozy rooms gives way to a sweetly lit courtyard where we shared a Georgian pkhali plate with bread and creamy nadugi (a cousin of sheep’s-milk ricotta) and a simple lula kebab whose minced meat is impaled on cinnamon sticks that haunt every bite. A 2021 qvevri from Rotchco’s Vineyards had a dry, quenching mouth grip—like a blast of air-conditioning—with the slightly sour, sophisticated edge of a Manzanilla sherry." - Gary Shteyngart