"My guide, Jhon Alva, is leading me on a three-hour walk from the town of Cocachimba to Gocta Waterfalls, one of the tallest free-falling cascades in the world. On the dark trail I have no choice but to trust Alva completely, cautiously taking each step on the steamy ground where I think I heard his last one. Day breaks as we reach a lush valley where sunlight soon pours over the plunging torrents flanked by endless tiers of cliffs. There isn't another soul in sight."