"How did it strike you on arrival?The property occupies virtually all of a 17th-century village perched in the foothills of the Mont Ventoux. Eight wonkily interlinked yet grand houses ramble around a terrace and pool with astonishing views—all Old World charmm from their stone foundations to their tiled rooftops. Sounds lovely. What’s the crowd like?European and American families and empty nesters, blue-chip cycling enthusiasts, and Crillon regulars who’ve observed the hotel’s gradual metamorphosis from cult eyrie to celebrated classic. How was check-in, getting to your room, and all that? Check-in is eased by superb home-made snacks in the unusually enjoyable hotel boutique. Check-out can be busy, so pre-arrange with staff. Tech is unobtrusive. The good stuff: Tell us about your room.I was in a suite in Maison Roche, decorated in soft blues and greys, with traditional tommette tiles on the floors—which are cool in summer, authentic to the region, and the most rustic feature of rooms that are otherwise contemporary classic. The bathrooms are huge, with walk-in showers and covetable fittings. Extremely fine bed linens, and total peace and privacy. How about the little things, like mini bar, or shower goodies. Any of that find its way into your suitcase?The paintings in my suite were still-lifes and landscapes by celebrated local artist Julian Merrow-Smith. A bowl of delectable fresh fruit was a nice touch. Room service and food: Worth it?High-end dining, deploying local and seasonal produce, such as Cavaillon melon, Carpentras strawberries, and Caromb figs, in the restaurant; regional classics in the cozy bistrot; breakfast and drinks in the café-bar. All al fresco in balmy weather. Do jump at the chance of a wine tasting with the sommelier, and drink local as much as you can. Anything stand out about other services and features? Whether it’s childcare, gyms, spas, even parking—whatever stuck with you.The spa is a fairly recent addition, now deservedly renowned, and I had an excellent, sensitive massage when heavily pregnant. The pool is often fairly busy with younger guests, so it’s great to be shown a child-free sunbathing nook off to one side. Bottom line: worth it, and why?Worth it for the elevated location, the views, and the sense of secrecy. Also, this is a hotel that is always evolving, so there’s usually something new to come back to." - Sophie Hargan
