Zannier Hotels Sonop
"Why did this hotel catch your attention? What's the vibe?Sonop caught my attention by being nearly invisible. The tents blend almost perfectly into the massive pile of boulders on which they're constructed, so after driving for five hours through the desert, I felt like I was just looking at more desert. I like the humility in not needing to make the hotel special from the outside, just the inside. You're first met at a reception outbuilding and then driven in a Land Rover to the boulder pile, transferred to an electric golf cart, and driven up a steep, winding path to a welcome area strewn with rugs, overlooking the vast desert. What's the backstory?Sonop is the fifth hotel opened by Zannier Hotels, their second in Namibia after Omaanda. A sixth hotel, in Vietnam, was slated to open this summer. Zannier Hotels is owned by Arnaud Zannier, who's the scion of a French business family known mostly for apparel and vineyards. All the Zannier hotels are decorated by Geraldine Dohogne. Angelina Jolie was the first guest at the Zannier resort in Cambodia, Phum Baitang, when she and her family took it over for five months, and she suggested to Arnaud that he visit Namibia. So, she's indirectly responsible for the existence of Sonop. Tell us all about the accommodations. Any tips on what to book?My room was a very large canvas tent with large mesh windows overlooking the desert. It was decorated in a distinctly colonial style—there was an actual pith helmet, among other antiques—that read as warm and luxurious. The bathroom had a beautiful claw foot tub that I couldn't bring myself to use because of a severe drought. The hotel is run on solar, so some amenities are pleasantly old school, like the actual ice chest that was kept supplied with cold drinks. The bed was a dramatic four poster and very comfortable. I wouldn't mind trying a different tent, though they are all separated from the dining area by winding staircases, so I'd stick to the higher ones. Is there a charge for Wi-Fi?There was no charge, and it was quite good given the remoteness of the location. Drinking and dining—what are we looking at?When I went during the soft open, they were still figuring out the food. The local staff were still being trained, so the bartenders were a bit slow, but diligent in a winning way. The bar tent and the pool were spectacular locations for a cocktail. The dinner was communal and multi-course, though not every guest was loving that, so I suspect the model may shift. Breakfast was included, and the local jams and fresh pastries were particularly delicious. Lunch was also included (it would be an epic journey to eat anywhere else) and was family style, with several small dishes. And the service?Almost everything went smoothly, and hiccups were due to the staff still being trained. The general manager, Brian Gardiner, was a delight, so kind and thoughtful, and obviously invested in his staff and the property. When I arrived, I was in the middle of an aura migraine, and he understood immediately and hustled me to my tent, rejiggered the itinerary, and didn't make me feel weird for being incapacitated. They seemed very able to organize special excursions—I know there's a hot air balloon breakfast on offer, for example. Brian had a movie screen set up by the pool one night at sunset for me to watch Casablanca, and I thought it would be cheesy, but it was magical. What type of travelers will you find here?They are affluent and a little Bohemian. They were probably brought to the lodge by privately chartered bush plane and are bopping around Africa by air. They are very well traveled. Their tastes run toward the nostalgic, and they are focused on landscapes. Is there anything you'd change?Just note that the layout of the hotel is challenging for anyone who's not good with stairs and impossible for anyone with true mobility issues. Any other hotel features worth noting?The pool is so very spectacular. It's an infinity edge at the bottom of the hill on which the hotel is built, and you can lie in the warm breeze on these amazing giant beanbags under umbrellas, enjoying snacks and a beverage, surrounded by the awe-inspiring landscape, and watch the oryx and springbok pass by. It had that pleasant tension of luxury in a very harsh place. Bottom line: Worth it? Why?Yes, but not for everyone. It takes work to get there, and there's not a ton to do. The point is to soak up the place. If you look at photos of the setting and are filled with longing, then it's for you." - Maggie Shipstead
