Kohlapuri Goat at Javitri At last, memorable goat curry around the corner from Bloomingdale’s. Javitri’s chef, Dhandu Ram, encourages the meat to relax during a patient, gentle braise in the pot, and wallops it with enough Maharashtrian spices and dried chiles to fell an elephant. It’s a classic good cop-bad cop routine, and it’s devastatingly effective. ($35) PETE WELLS
